FOUR RIVERS. Chapter 1. Approaching Buru from the south. "out of Buru flow four rivers that Water the earth. These are the Waeapu, the Waekuma, the Waili, and the Waenibe. --Buru myth. I will never forget that morning, back in 1957, when i opened my eyes to see Buru island towering off our starboard beam. Strands of off-Grey mist clung to the dark slopes, which rose abruptly from the depths to elevations of well over a thousand meters. The island was vast, stretching far into the distance in both directions. The whole scene was suffused with that aura of mystery which i have come to associate so clearly with the islands of the Moluccan Archipelago. It was as if sea, sky, and land bore silent witness to some story that has never yet been told. Grey turned to purple, and purple to green, as our ship moved steadily, almost imperceptibly through the Waters. Buru was more than just another island to me. I had heard often of her fabled mountains, her giant pythons, and rushing streams. I yearned impatiently for the shore, my eyes scanning the emerging contours of the land. Where was Waebohit? Where were the other mountain villages? I looked in vain for some sign of human habitation, but all i could see was tall jungle. I would simply have to Wait. My companion on this journey was Martiga Peoha, the young man who was pastor with Temi at Waebohit during the time that village was at its peak of spiritual development. Standing only about five feet high, Martiga had the fair skin, the mongoloid facial features, and the unmistakable accent of a native of central Celebes, whence he came. His life could never have been easy, and i had seen him in sickness and in sorrow alike. But Martiga had a smile that could persist through almost anything. A very moral person, he was spiritually sensitive, and strong in doctrine. He had in him those attributes of truth and counsel that can only be generated by a deep and pure relationship with God. Physically diminutive, he was spiritually a giant. Embarking as deck passengers, we had sailed the previous day from the Moluccan capitol of Ambon. Now we were approaching our destination, the tiny port of Leksula, government headquarters for the district of South Buru. I had visited Buru before, but only as a passenger on the long cruises from Ambon to Bacian, when our ship would stop for a day or two at Namlea, in the north. Even then i had been struck by the beauty of the island. The sunsets over Kayeli bay were truly beyond description. In the mornings, strong off-shore breezes brought bamboo rafts with huge sago thatch sails floating across to us from the mouth of the Waeapu. But now, for the first time, i was approaching the island from the south, and our destination lay deep in those storied mountains, where the forests grew rank and wild, and the rivers ran fresh and free. Fortunately for us, our journey took place before those years of terrible hardship perpetrated upon the people of the Moluccas and other islands by the mindless expulsion of the Royal Dutch Packet line, "K.P.M." Though conditions on the boat were humble, we still had ample room to spread our bedding on the deck. This vessel may have been slightly smaller than the usual K.P.M. steamer, but she did have a steel hull, and was adequately proportioned for the cruise. I reserve the horrors of subsequent journeys for later chapters of this book. My reason for coming to Buru was directly traceable to a principle held by my parents, the late Ralph and Edna Devin. Many years before, sometime in the late thirties or early forties, a disagreement seems to have arisen between them and certain other missionaries, notably from the "Bethel" group, concerning the nature of the native Indonesian psyche. According to my parents, the "Bethel" group felt that some tribes, and certain classes of people, were simply not strong enough to stand or carry on for The Lord by themselves. In other words, the Indonesians would always be dependent upon missionary help. nor would they ever become responsible Christians, or be truly "delivered" from their sins. They could only be "forgiven for," not "delivered from," their sins. My parents, on the other hand, were determined that the Indonesian people could stand alone, and said so, and this conviction of theirs became a principle which was to have far-Reaching ramifications for the evangelization of Indonesia. They believed unwaveringly that anybody God chose to save and to fill with the Holy Spirit would certainly be enabled at the same time to "live the life," and be strong in The Lord. They held that the Holy Spirit treated men without partiality, and that if people would simply yield their "all" to The Lord, The Lord would keep them, and make them a strong power for him, wherever he put them to work. "we don't go for that teaching," my mother said to me, referring to the idea that the Indonesians were somehow inferior to ourselves. "we believe anybody can be delivered, and filled with the Holy Spirit, and be a power for God." She spoke these words when i questioned her at the age of almost 81, lying on her back in much the same Way she had been lying since the stroke that paralyzed her left limbs and disoriented her mind some ten months before. This principle was already held by my parents before the second world War, and the subsequent Indonesian revolution. David expressed it about 3,000 years ago in the Psalms: "god fashions the hearts of all the inhabitants of the earth alike." (Psalm 33:15). It found expression in the declaration of independence. "we hold these truths to be self-Evident, that all men are created equal..." Along with certain other attitudes and ideas, it came to be incorporated into the very fabric of my being, and struck for me a course across wild and lonely depths, where few have sailed before. To see exactly how all this brought me eventually to Buru, let us leave the decks of our Indonesian freighter as it approaches Leksula through the Buru sea, and return temporarily to Ambon, and to Bacian, where one might say it all began. Chapter two. Holding the fort at Ambon. After the death of my father in 1951, my mother began to feel that people were taking advantage of her widowhood. she felt this with regard to those who had managed "bank & office equipment co.," my father's business in Seattle, but i was too young at the time to judge whether she was right or wrong in her evaluation of them. She eventually sold them the business for about $120,000. This left her financially well-Endowed, but she grieved much over my father. During the summer of 1954, we returned to Ambon from a year's vacation in the u.S. We found my brother-In-Law and sister, John and Shirley Tinsman, looking after the mission at Kate-Kate, on the inner bay. with them were their two children, Kim and Laviere, both small. I remember mother conversing with John, from whom she had intended to take over the Bible institute, but i was still too young to understand what was being said at that time. I only know that mother grew incredulously dissatisfied with John's role in whatever it was that was going on. They had always been great friends, however, and i never heard any bad words between them, even then. I only heard her outpourings of heart, partially to no one, partially to me, and saw her weeping in the privacy of her room. Soon the Tinsmans were gone on the long journey back to America, leaving mother and me alone in the large rooms of our apartment in the old Dutch plantation house at Kate-Kate. Mother found herself facing the world alone, with only myself, a mere lad of 12, to confide in. As far as we know, she was the only American woman within a radius of hundreds of miles. People had evidently thought mother would never be able to carry on without her husband, and proceeded to shape their plans accordingly. In reality, they seem to have misunderstood the mechanics of the Ralph-Edna relationship, which had been such a successful combination in its time. It was not hard to believe in my father. He was big, six-Foot-Two, a mover of men and of fortunes. The u.S. government had offered him a commission in the pacific during world war ii. His business was flourishing, and he was known everywhere. But what of this woman who had stood at his side? What could she possibly do? Of course, their eyes were physically oriented. They failed to see that whereas Ralph was a giant in the material universe, it was Edna who towered in the spiritual realm. Together they were dynamite, but separated it was Edna who held the greater spiritual force. Edna couldn't imagine that she had been taken so lightly, since she had pioneered everything on equal terms with her husband. It seemed to her that the younger missionaries had conspired to wrest from her the Kate-Kate Bible institute for their own gain. They planned to incorporate it into the newer facility which my father had also been instrumental in establishing on the northern end of Sulawesi. The Bible institute there was located at Kekaskasen, high in the cool, misty mountains behind Menado. At that time there were three families of American missionaries there, among whom was my brother. They all lived in the area of the Bible institute, some in Kekaskasen, and some in Tomohon. several Moluccan Bible students had already been routed there, and it wasn't long before mother caught her secretary shipping her late husband's office equipment there as well. Furthermore, mother found that the secretary, a strikingly beautiful girl, and probably the most intellectually gifted Ambonese woman i have ever known, was maintaining a steady stream of correspondence with the American missionaries in north Sulawesi. From them she had received the instructions to do what she had done. Three things made this latter experience especially painful to mother. In the first place, the office equipment in question was not purchased with church funds, but with personal funds from Ralph's own business. Secondly, Ralph had given the secretary his personal training, and now it seemed she had been unfaithful in the handling of his affairs. And lastly, my own brother was involved in the plot. He was about 25 at the time. Fortunately, he was the youngest missionary on the field, so mother didn't think he was the one who should bear the brunt of the blame. She didn't see him as the person engineering the scheme, but he lost a great deal of respect in her eyes. As for the secretary, she lost a relationship with mother which might have flourished during the best years of her life, and she could not seem to work for the other missionaries after these events. Things might have gone differently for her had her life been dominated more by spirit rather than by intellect, however refined. As it was, she seemed in many ways to stagnate. Yet she has managed to translate copious materials from English to Indonesian. She has lived an honest and good life, and been helpful to many. Many years later, she did regain some of mother's confidence, as did my brother. As far as the other two missionaries were concerned, the older of the trio, a brother Harold Carlblom, regained mother's confidence early, and has had a fruitful evangelistic ministry in Indonesia. The remaining missionary has never regained mother's unreserved support, and his ministry has not been noteworthy. So mother suffered, and my brothers litters were only acid to her wounds. he was young, and not overly sensitive, and probably meant her no harm. But he remembered her past successes as an evangelist in north Sulawesi, and kept inviting her to return for more, as if she had no responsibilities at the Kate-Kate Bible institute, in Ambon. Thus besides her great loneliness, mother had many additional sorrows grievous to bear. I watched as she groaned over her meals, spent long hours in prayer, and became increasingly depressed over the immorality of the people. Those were years of many back-slidings, failures, and wanderings. All these things cut her to the heart because she continued to believe in the higher potential of the Moluccan people. Had she not been convinced that the people could be delivered from their sins, of course she would never have cared. But because of the principle in which she believed, she could never be happy if the people were not pure. It would also have made little difference to her had she not loved the people. Yet this love was often concealed by the severity with which she addressed herself to those who were in error. All during this time, it seemed that i was the only one in whom she could confide, so that it was upon my tender ears that she poured forth her soul day after day. This gave me an insight into the dealings of men, an abhorrence for sin, and a determination to succeed spiritually that has been with me ever since. These things were developing in me, and have continued to develop, but our communications at that time helped to establish and crystalize them in my mind, as well as to instruct me in the things of which i did not know. Things looked dark indeed, but mother hung on, kept the Bible institute running, and did the work of the lord. Having secured land from the tan sisters, in the town of Ambon, she sold dad's old wood-Shop tools to people from the department of fisheries, namely Fred Tehupuring and others. Then she used the money to build a church in Ambon, on what was then known as Valentyne street. The building was large enough to create structural problems not easily solved by the primitive methods then available in Ambon. The first attempt actually blew apart in a windstorm! But in the end, the structure held. It had a capacity of over two hundred people, and served the congregation well for the next 16 years or so, Until the present building was completed in 1970. Mother's old church building was roofed entirely with a thatch of sago leaves, and its walls were of sago palm branches, or gaba-Gaba, on the inside, with corrugated sheet metal stood on end to form the outer layer. Between the roof and the top of the walls was a space of about 1/2 meter, with nothing but chain-Link wire. This open area of the wall served the duel purpose of letting in fresh air and light, and of letting out the sounds of the meetings for the benefit of passers by. In those days, the sounds of people praying in the spirit drew many into the building. They realized something was going on inside, came in to see what it was, and believed. Many good meetings were held in that building, a fact i later attributed in part to the fine acoustical properties of the gaba-Gaba walls. So far as i can remember, the only thing widowy or womanish that mother ever did during that time was to hang over the inside of the entrance a white signboard, about 1/2 by 1 meters, upon which she stenciled, "he lay down his life for the sheep." On the left side, she mounted a large portrait of my late father. I can still see that portrait in my mind's eye, my father looking matter-Of-Factly down at us from above, hair balding slightly at the temples, and bushy eyebrows beetling out over steel-Rimmed bifocals. His head was turned slightly sideways, and he wore a business suit in keeping with his facial expression. None of the people seemed to like the plaque very much. I don't think this was because they didn't like my father, but because they felt that no one but god should be honored in the sanctuary. Nevertheless, mother would have been insulted at the idea of taking it down, so it remained until the present building was completed, and the old one was ready to be torn down. At that time i asked if i might have the portrait of my father, and the pastor assured me that i could, but when the plaque was finally taken down, it was withheld from me, and ultimately disappeared, to where i cannot tell. A young man named Paul Tehupuring was tending the flock while mother was building the church, and it was to this young man, who later became the "Assemblies of God" church leader for all of Indonesia, that mother surrendered the newly-completed church building. He had had no formal theological training at that time, and, to my knowledge, has not had any since. But he had a powerful mind, and had a vast capacity to learn things on his own. I didn't like him from our first meeting in the wheelhouse of the "evangel," crossing the bay from Halong to Kate-Kate. I was nine at the time, and probably not a very nice kid to be around. I started right out teasing him about else, whom i had heard he was planning to marry. His city background gave him a certain effeminate quality which could not easily be reconciled to my rustic personality. but all this changed in later years, for he became a friend whom i have learned both to respect and love. I am sure that my rough manners must have offended his more sensitive nature many times. But i later changed, and he changed, and we grew more and more to like one another. He was exceptionally tall for an Indonesian, and black, and his large nose and eyes suggested that some of his ancestors might have been from India. His personality was magnetic to Indonesians as well as foreigners, and the power of his presence and his smile gave the meetings a positive atmosphere that was sadly lacking when he was gone. In those days, Paul was still young in the way, and had to learn many lessons, not all of them easily. He soon established a blossoming rapport with the other pentecostal clergymen in the town, which led ultimately and logically to the idea of holding joint meetings in the then-new church. One of the other ministers was a Eurasian from Mardika, who was rumored to have taught that one's soul resides in the back part of one's head. He had traveled abroad, and mother disliked him for certain fund-Raising activities staged in Australia. Another of these ministers, mother said, had had an adulterous relationship with his second wife while his ailing first wife was still alive. In short, past dealings with these people had convinced mother that they were immoral. she tried to warn Paul, but could not prevail. Soon, Paul had them all on his platform, which was more than poor mother could bear. After agonizing, groaning, and weeping before the lord, she decided she would take me, her students and all necessary belongings, and head north to pioneer a new work on Bacian. There she would remain until further word from the lord, or until she saw a change in the pattern of things at Ambon. Many of the Ambonese disliked mother for her bluntness in those days. They preferred the sweet little old Norwegian lady, sister Bierva, who never offended anybody. Not least among those who disliked mother must have been Paul Tehupuring himself. But we know that it all really stemmed from our principle. For had mother not been convinced of the deliverance god could and would work in the lives of the people, she would certainly not have minded having over the "Pinksters" for a meeting or two, especially when they appeared to be so full of good-Will and respect. It was the principle that made her harsh and blunt in her dealings with sin, for she knew that her own work would most certainly go the way of all other pentecostal efforts in the area unless she kept on fighting, teaching, and exposing. She saw beyond the present failings of the people to a time when they would rise from their moral lethargy, and she knew that to accept anything less would preclude the possibility of that vision ever coming to pass. She knew that the realization of that vision depended upon the faith of the people, and that the faith of the people depended on someone's willingness to continue to teach them, By word and by deed, until they saw that the things being taught them were true. So we came to leave Ambon, probably during the summer of 1955, having embarked as deck passengers aboard the k.P.M. vessel, "Kaimana," bound for Namlea, Sanana, and Labuha. Chapter 3. North, to far Bacian. We left Ambon with a good many belongings. Mother had her notebooks, typewriter, paper, and box camera. I had two crude spears, which i had forged from pieces of scrap steel at Kate-Kate. The lighter one, whose tip was once a piece of steel pipe, i had used to put an end to Oom Barma's maingy dog some months before. Mother had packed much of our gear in large rattan hampers. These were about two feet long, one and one half foot wide, and one foot deep. They had two flaps that opened at the top, and held an astonishing number of items. We brought cooking utensils, foodstuffs packed in discarded wooden milk crates, blankets, and folding camp beds from the dormetory. But if our belongings were curious, then our traveling companions must have been even more so. Not least among them was an Ambonese lad named Petrus Nanlohi, a student from the Kate-Kate Bible institute. He had such a struggle with his salvation that he was often seen pausing for prayers of forgiveness as he climbed the tall coconut trees when it was his duty to collect nuts. We also had Derek and Marie Behuku, newlyweds. Marie was about six years Derek's senior, and had a son of almost as many years from some former affair. One of the finest men on board must have been Egbert (pronounced "Ekbert") Kaihatu, a frail, sensitive, and dedicated man approaching middle age. If there were others in our company, i do not remember them, except for two, a young man and woman whose roles were to be very important in our lives. The young man was probably eighteen or nineteen years of age at that time. He had tightly curled hair, and a face covered with pock-Marks and pimples. He also had one of the finest examples of male physic i have ever seen anywhere. Before becoming a Christian, his life had been devoted to body-Building, and he was an expert at weight-Lifting, jogging, and all manner of sports. He claimed that his people had a bride picked out for him in his village on Ceram, where they planned to make him chief. His name was Joseph Latu, but we called him Oce, pronounced "Ochay." The young lady was a delicate blend of Moluccan and Chinese. She was quiet, retiring, shy. One could see in her the reserved poise of a Chinese noblewoman. Yet her personality was, in many ways, Moluccan. She had straight, black hair, Chinese eyes, and skin that was a lovely light brown. Meticulously clean, she was intolerant of all impropriety. Yet she was basically loving, generous, and quick to respond with a smile. Her name was Gertruida grace Cia, but we called her Tet. We boarded the k.P.M. vessel "Kaimana" one afternoon, setting up our folding beds on the main hatch, where we made our camp. The hatches on those ships were covered by hoisting into place steel beams, which rested athwartships about 1.5 meters apart in sockets on the coaming. Between these were fitted planks that lay fore and aft, over which were spread a heavy canvass tarpaulin. This was battened down using heavy strips of steel that fitted around the coaming to be held down by wooden wedges driven between their ends and a steel flange. The whole was then covered by a canvass awning, that was hung on steel cables, supported amidships by the boom, and by posts along the sheer. The first morning out of Ambon, we awoke to find ourselves off Namlea, in the spectacular bay of Kayeli. Our ship dropped anchor, her crew rolled back the awnings, and we were forced to abandon our positions on the hatch cover so that it could be removed for loading. We went ashore in the launch, and mother and Tet spent many hours combing the reef, while i went wandering about. There were many marvels of nature to be seen in the shallows, and mother was always a great one for collecting and examining things, and Tet seemed to be at home doing the same. Mother was especially interested in collecting Moluccan abalone shells for a naturalist named Robert Talmadge, of Oregon, with whom she had carried on some correspondence. I ascertained that Namlea was a sort of outpost of civilization on this island, and that primitive peoples were living in an area called "Belakang Tanah," roughly similar in meaning to the Australian term, "outback." I even found a path which was said to lead to "Belakang Tanah." I rather liked this small village, with its frontier atmosphere, and pondered the mystery that lay beyond. At that time, Namlea was a tiny, sun-Baked town, with vistas opening everywhere onto the sea. After one or two days, the steel beams of the hatch cover were again lowered into place. Upon these the planks were fitted. Then the large canvas shroud was spread, and battened down with steel straps. At last, the awnings were unfurled, and lashed in place, and we were ready once more for the open sea. Our next destination was Sanana, for which we sailed through the night. Deck fare was poor, but we improved it with tinned corned beef, often called bully beef, tomato catsup, boiled eggs, etc., from our milk crates. I especially remember the Del Monte tomato catsup, then a rare commodity in Indonesia. Not long before our departure from Ambon, this item had mysteriously appeared on the shelves of Toko Nam, the only Chinese shop selling foreign foodstuffs in Ambon at the time. The label advertised pineapple juice as one of the ingredients. I thought the flavor was delicious. The journey was not easy for some of us. On the last night out of Bacian, a strong wind arose on the sea, and our friend, Egbert (pronounced "Ekbert") Kaihatu, succumbed to an attack of tuberculosis which led ultimately to his early death , some months later, in Java. I was too young to notice if he had been adequately cared for on the cruise, or whether he had been getting enough to eat. The next morning, Sibela rose from the mists before us, and our eyes feasted upon the contours of the hills, for Bacian lay before us in the drizzly dawn. I especially remember two great trees near the shore, a few miles south of Labuha. They appeared to tower over everything else on the coastal plain. There was no way i could determine their actual height. I was delighted by the conical form of Amasing hill, which lay to our left as we approached the town. Ahead, and slightly to our right, was the copra warehouse, with the words Jajasan copra painted in giant letters across its imposing tin roof. Our ship dropped anchor, the crew lowered the launch, and soon we were roaming through the town. Labuha was built on a spit of sand, surrounded on four sides by water. On the north it was bounded by the Amasing stream. On the west it faced the sea, while on the east and south great sago palms rose from the stagnant waters of an impenetrable swamp. The sand seems to have been deposited in historical times, for i found the crumbling remains of fort Barnaveldt, which was originally built on the shore, about a mile or two inland. It was situated in an area of secondary forest and gardens, across a stream in a northeasterly direction from the center of the town. The Porteugese arrived on Bacian in 1525, and it was they who built fort Barnaveldt. It was captured from them by the Dutch in 1609. Bacian was once ruled by its own sultan, but was later placed under the suzereinty of the sultan of Ternate. In 1683, the Dutch took over the government of Bacian, but the sultan of Bacian still held authority under the Dutch controleur until the outbreak of world war ii. Another relic of the European-Dominated past could be found in the sandy shallows north of the main harbor. There lay the decaying wreck of an old steel sailing ship, her bows seaward, as if she had foundered dragging anchor in some furious "barat-daya," long ago. Her mighty mast, sheared through at the base by corrosion, was held up in an oblique position by the rusting steel framework of her stern, its tip jutting out over the water landward. a coral garden flourished over her subsiding steel ribs, and the crumbling steel bulwarks of her hold. In 1983 i learned that she was actually the "earl of Leicester," sunk in 1860. According to old-Timers on Bacian, she had sprung a bad leak in Ternate, but the crew made satisfactory repairs, and the captain decided to set sail for Labuha. En route she encountered a storm, and by the time she reached Labuha she was leaking again, this time badly. The captain then brought her in close to shore, and abandoned her. He arranged with the natives to remove as much of her cargo as possible. They received three bags of rice for every ten they brought ashore. It is said that the natives ate nothing but rice for months. The ship's bell was hung in the protestant church, where Whetzel found it "still gonging strong" after eighty years. I found this information, along with the name of the fort, in Randall and Dorothy Whetzel's booklet, "yet there is room." Chapter 4. Life in Labuha. When we arrived, the population of Labuha seemed to be about five or six thousand. Mother found an ancient house, probably belonging to some Chinese businessman, in the commercial part of town, and there we moved our camp. In the mornings we held meetings, which were always followed by prayer, and crowds would gather for a glimpse of what was going on. Since i was not required to stay for prayer, i often wandered out at such times and spoke with the lads of the town. Finding me more approachable, and only fourteen, they asked with a trace of sarcasm if i also believed in what was going on inside. I had always accepted such sights and sounds, but i had never personally experienced any of the spiritual phenomena to which they were referring. Foodstuffs were not easy to come by in Bacian, and our diet was soon reduced to a sticky rice called "pulut," a persistent supply of red "bayam," or spinach, which appeared, when cooked, as if dripping with blood; and a less reliable supply of fresh fish. Pulut was generally used throughout Indonesia for the preparation of snacks and pastries, but not as the kind of rice one would expect at mealtime. I had grown used to weavels, and even mildew, in the flour; but the loaves of bread mother bought at Labuha were almost more than i could bear. Once mother met a man on the road carrying a leg of deer. This she purchased for our supper. At home (The little house by the prison), she cut the meat up into steaks, and these she fried over the fire. I had always been a finicky eater, and would never have dreamed of eating deer meat before. But things were different here, and meat was a luxury which could not well be ignored. I gave in to the tantalizing aroma that night, and was rewarded with a treat that i can remember to this day (1979). Along with deer meat, i learned to eat many new things at Bacian, and my attitude about food has never been the same. Things got easier for us once we learned what we could and could not expect to buy. Labuha was also a frontier town, an outpost of civilization in primitive surroundings. The availability of pulut over regular rice at the time may have been caused by its great popularity for the preparation of snack foods. Conversely, it may have been precisely because ordinary rice had sold more quickly that Labuha was left with nothing but pulut. What ever the case, boys roamed the streets in the mornings with "dandangs", or wooden platters, on their heads crying "nasi jaha!" or "gogos!" depending upon which item they were hawking. We were puzzled by the words, "nasi jaha," for to our ears they sounded like "nasi jahat!" a literal translation of which would be, "wicked rice." We later learned that "nasi jaha," terminating in a glottal stop instead of a "t," was what we knew in Ambon as "nasi bulu," or "bamboo rice." This is pulut rice, cooked in coconut milk inside a three or four inch diameter segment of bamboo which has been lined on the inside with banana leaves. The bamboo is cut green, so that it can stand the open flame while the rice is cooking inside. A "gogos" is a small packet of fish and spices, rolled in pulut rice and coconut milk, wrapped in a piece of banana leaf pinned together at both ends with a tiny needle of bamboo, and toasted over the coals. A typical gogos is about one inch in diameter, and about six inches long. These little snacks have a delicious flavor all their own, and go well with a cup of coffee in the morning. Other foods we purchased at the bazaar, located at the Amasing end of town. There was always an abundance of fresh water, though the quality left somewhat to be desired. One had only to dig down about five feet into the sandy soil to find a virtually inexhaustible supply for bathing, drinking, and washing clothes. For drinking purposes our water had to be boiled, since it was always drawn from an open well. The water held a great deal of calcium-Carbonate in solution, and this would settle to the bottom like a layer of fine dust once it had cooled. The water also had a certain fishy taste which made it loathsome to drink. Aside from these few difficulties, however, one could not really complain. The wells were interesting structures. They were hand-Dug, and their sides were lined with smooth rocks so that they would remain clean, and not crumble. Since few people could afford cement, there were usually no coamings around the tops of the wells, making it necessary to keep livestock out by other means, such as bamboo fences. Tiny crabs scurried over the rocks that lined the sides of these wells,, and to these we attributed the singing sounds which rose from the wells at night. The water table was only four or five feet below the surface, but when it rained hard, the waters rose to flood wells, yards, and roads alike. Somewhere near the well one could usually find a small structure, often of the flimsiest materials, and perhaps even open at the top, which served as the bath. In those days, theft was not the problem that it later became in the Moluccas, so we could leave things like tooth-Brushes, tooth paste, a box of soap, etc., just about anywhere one could find a place for them along the walls, on flat rocks, etc. poor Tet was greatly disturbed one day when she found signs that someone had taken the liberty of using not only her bath soap, but also her tooth-Brush! To her it was unthinkable that anyone could use someone else's tooth-Brush, but i later found that such things were not entirely uncommon in the Moluccas, where people are often incredulous about the germ theory to this day. And, if you don't believe in the germ theory, then what could really be wrong with using a pretty, young girl's tooth-Brush, anyway? The problem of the outhouse we never did really solve. In all of Bacian, there was never such a thing as what we call a toilet. We learned that there were two alternatives open to us, neither one of which was particularly appealing. The one was the woods: the other was the beach. On the beach, one could opt for one of the several rickety outhouses, or simply squat on the sand. Night time was preferable for the latter, of course, since the hulls of vacant canoes offered little protection in daylight. The dogs and flies would then do their work, and the rains and tides would wash away what remained. Even if one chose the outhouse, on still had to watch where one stepped, for these natural processes of waste disposal were apt to take time. The outhouses were elaborate affairs, beautiful structures built out over the water on stilts with the latrine proper at the far end. One gained access to the latrine by means of a creaky bamboo bridge, or walk, which usually started above the reach of the tide, on dry sand. The latrine was ordinarily equipped with a closing door, and a one or more holes in the floor through which one could take aim at the waves below. Unfortunately anyone nearby had full view of the dropping pellets, which made embarrassing slapping sounds when the tide was low. For toilet paper, people usually carried a beer bottle or small bucket full of water with which to wash themselves when they were done. Our American toilet paper must have been a rare curiosity, though no one ever mentioned the matter to me while i was on Bacian. If one chose the woods instead of the shore, it was inland, toward the swamp, where one could either squat among the bushes, or perch, birdlike, on the trunk of some fallen tree. In either case, one might be perturbed by rustlings, or splashings, or by the disconcerting appearance from nowhere of a four or five foot aquatic monitor lizard, with cruel and curious eyes. In reality, these were ferocious looking but beautiful creatures, like apparitions from the prehistoric past. On some of their backs were huge, fan-Shaped fins, which seemed ornamental rather than functional in design. I felt somewhat uneasy around these creatures, for there was no visible mechanism to keep them from growing to forty or fifty feet in length instead of a mere four or five, in which case they would have been objects of sheer terror. I had observed other aquatic lizards, but nothing like these. I had seen the ones at Laguna, a crater lake whose waters lay below sea level on the island of Ternate. Their flashing fangs, as they surfaced around our canoe, looked terrifying enough to keep us, at all costs, from falling into the water. But these seemed bigger and nobler, and deported themselves in such a way as to give the impression of being masters of their surroundings. When it rained, as it did sometimes, in torrents, Labuha became a lake. One could probably have paddled one's way through town in a canoe with about as much ease as one could walk. Yan Patirajawane said that this was not so until a couple of years or so before we arrived, the reason being that there used to be good ditches. These ditches had been allowed to fill with sediment and sand, and so the rain water had had nowhere to go. We later moved inland, to a small native house beside the prison. It lay just to the left of the prison walls as one faced inland. The roof was thatched with sago leaves, and the walls were of sago palm branches, a material known in the Moluccas as Gaba-gaba. The roof was infested with termites and other insects which blanketed everything with a steady shower of tiny droppings each day. There was no ceiling, of course, and the floor was of packed earth, though here and there the remains of some former cement floor still showed through. It had a verandah, one large bedroom, and one small bedroom. Entering at the front door, one first passed through the verandah. Then passing through another door offset to the right, one passed through a living room area to the left of which was the larger bedroom. Behind this, there was another smaller room to the right of the smaller bedroom. Behind all this lay the kitchen, with a large, rough table just behind the wall of the smaller bedroom. The hearth was against the back wall. A door opened outside to the right as one approached the hearth. The hearth was of typical Moluccan design. It was a box of earth, mounted about three feet off the ground on four wooden poles. Stones were set in the earth in such a way as to support cooking pots. The typical design has three long stones per cooking place, one end of each planted in the dirt, the other end leaning in over the fire to support the pot. If iron rod were available, the stones were built up in such a way as to support two or three iron rods upon which cooking pots could be set. Hanging over the hearth, also supported by the same four poles, or sometimes hung from the ceiling, was a bamboo rack upon which firewood was stacked for drying, and upon which pieces of fish or other meat could be hung for smoking. Just outside the kitchen door, and to the left, was a bamboo rack, or Para-para. This structure was also supposed by wooden poles which had been driven deep into the earth. Its top was about four feet off the ground, and it was used for preparing food or washing dishes. Farther toward the front of the house, near the house but between the house and the prison, was a well with fairly good water. The well was surrounded by a court of clean gravel, with tufts of green grass poking up through the pebbles here and there, and a clump of dark, ornamental grass growing in one area. There were trees in the yard, one of which was a sour "blimbing," or star-fruit. It was the kind with the tiny, elliptical fruit. The kind that doesn't have the five ridges running from end to end as most blimbings do. This tree grew in back of the house on the prison side, not far from the para-para. From one of the trees, i could see over the wall, and down into the prison. The prison doors were kept open all during the day, and the prisoners, even murderers, were allowed to roam about freely, as long as they came back inside in the evening. The people were basically good, and the place was pervaded by a fundamental confidence in human nature. Terrible crimes had been committed, but only as a one-Time thing. The hardened criminal seemed to be unknown. I cannot recall ever hearing other than the sounds of peace rising from those ancient walls, nor did i ever meet with anything but good-Will from everyone i met there. At our little house by the prison i had a baby monkey, but i cannot remember its name. When mother purchased it for me, it had deep, festering wounds about the belly, where it had been tied with rough Gamutu cord. Gamutu is a course, black fiber, taken from the Arenga saccharifera palm, and used for making brooms and ropes. It is not as strong as hemp, But lasts much longer in the presence of moisture. With proper care, my tiny monkey was soon cured of his wounds, and was running and chattering all over the house, making a general nuisance of himself, especially during mealtimes, when he would climb up and sit on the backs of our chairs. The poor little fellow didn't live very long. For some reason, not everyone in our party was as kindly disposed toward animals as i was, and i suspected this had something to do with it. At any rate, when we lift him at Labuha to go some place or other, he died. We had heard much about Babang. A map of the island showed that it lay directly across a narrow isthmus, about sixteen kilometers from where we were. I was enthusiastic about hiking across the island, but mother held back for awhile. The scope of her activities was much broader than mine, and she had other considerations. In the end, however, mother decided that we should go, and so we laid our plans. Chapter 5. To Babang. Early one morning, we gathered for prayer. Our gear was packed, and i was fairly bursting to get on the trail. As i remember it now, there were four of us leaving--Mother, Joseph, tet, and myself. Joseph had a pack weighing about sixty pounds, the rest of us twenty to thirty. None of us had packs specifically designed for hiking. Joseph Latu's heavy burden was packed in one of the rattan hampers which i have described before. Mother's thirty or so pounds was rolled up in her pandannus-Leaf sleeping mat. I can't even remember my own pack or Tet's anymore. We prayed with those who would remain behind, and struck out down the road, Joseph swinging beautifully under his burden. I virtually worshipped the man because of his fine physic, and that morning he looked as if there was no challenge for which he was not ready. One of us carried my light spear, and i know we must have had other weapons besides. Joseph was probably carrying a bare machete. I think i was carrying a guitar over my shoulder, wrapped up in a plastic sheet. I remember that it came apart later as a result of moisture condensing in the plastic sheet from exposure to the sun. We found that it does not pay to wrap musical instruments in plastic sheets in the tropics. A great deal of moisture is stored in the wood. This moisture evaporates in the heat of the sun, causing condensation inside the plastic sheet. The water gets into the glue, and everything warps and comes apart. Our journey took us parallel to the coast as far as Tomori village, though we could not see the sea. Between Labuha and Tomori there were a few clearings, sago swamps, and jungle. At one place someone had planted some clove trees in a little plot along the left hand side of the road. They were probably the first clove trees on Bacian since the exterminations carried out by the Dutch east India company, some centuries before. Tomori village was populated by a people of the same name, whom the Dutch had moved there from Celebes about a hundred years before. At Tomori we struck inland, leaving the road to Mandawong to follow the branch that led toward Barangka-Dolong. Tomori, incidentally, is populated by people of Martiga Peoha's tribe, and Martiga had been with them before we came to Bacian, communicating with them in their own native tongue. The day was glorious, bright sunlight streaming through the trees. We entered secondary forest, and crossed a few tiny streams, most of them dry. The rock specimens we found in the stream beds were fascinating. Especially one foliated variety whose grains shown with a metallic luster at certain angles to the sun. We stopped to rest at spots where we found great piles of "kayu-besi," or rosewood, an indigenous hardwood so heavy that it sinks in water. The wood had evidently been sawed some years before, perhaps to rebuild the broken bridges, then left to the elements because no one had the means to remove it. Kayu-besi is almost impermeable to insects and moisture, but it will eventually deteriorate if dry-Rot sets in, or if it is exposed to the tropical elements for great lengths of time. After the secondary forest, we came to Kilo-Empat, about four kilometers from Labuha, where we found a few houses and gardens, evidently Butonese. Thence our path led straight into the "skojo," an expansive area of savannah where the Japanese had built an airfield during the second world war. The name comes from a Japanese word meaning "airfield." By now the sun was blazing down upon us, and the sweat was streaming from our foreheads and hair, stinging our eyes. The alang-alang grass grew about six feet tall where it stood straight up, and it was laced with mimosa thorns that tore at our arms, packs, and clothes. The grass blades themselves were about one inch wide, and had sharp edges which sliced into our skin. Sometimes the trail was so overgrown that it became a thing to be felt rather than seen. The earth was clay, and foot paths over such terrain tend to narrow down to about six inches in width, so that in some places it is just possible to get one foot in front of the other. The humidity was stifling. There was precious little movement of air, and the alang-alang grass steamed suffocatingly in the sun. The whole island was volcanic, and fertile, and from the savannah we had spectacular views of the mountains, which rose all around us. Before us, and slightly to our left, rose one of the most perfectly formed volcanic cones i have ever seen. Its origins must have been recent in geologic time, but its slopes were clad with lush, green jungle. to our right rose mighty Sibela, where few mortals had ever gone, and to our left the northern range. It was a sight to take one's breath away, and we were drinking it all in. The savannah broke about two hours out of Labuha, at the banks of the ra, which flowed leftward across our path from the slopes of Sibela, where to i do not know. The stream bed was strewn with boulders and pebbles, washed by some of the purest water that ever flowed. There were deep pools, turning greenish-Blue, and flashing cascades over the rocks where the stream ran shallow and swift. The water was as clear as glass, and tasted absolutely pure. Its coolness and freshness seemed incomparable to us. We were all filthy, and my blue jeans were soaked through with perspiration. Joseph and i wandered a little way upstream, stripped, dove in, and reveled in the cool waters with enthusiasm and delight. The sun was blazing from above. Mother and Tet found another pool somewhere else, and probably did the same. Donning our smelly clothes, we resumed our journey, plunging into the primary forest to the east of the ra. Here the trees stood like a massive wall through which we passed into twilight and shadow. On and on we trekked, beneath the arching branches. We crossed the Waiamiga, which also flowed leftward across our path. The bridges were all gone, but a few, like that over the Waiamiga, still had some of its heavy timbers in place. These were kayu-besi beams that had supported the planking from below. Some spanned deep gullies. If they looked like they would hold us, Joseph and i would walk across them while mother and Tet would descend to the stream, wade through, and climb the far bank. The forest grew even more profusely on the far side of the Waiamiga, and we walked through deepening gloom. The sight of wild monkeys and unknown birds offered excitement and relief from the monotony of the trail. One bird was especially interesting. It never flew, but ran along the branches, wings slightly open, leaping and gliding from tree to tree. The grace and poise of its movements were wonderful to behold! I didn't know it at the time, but the natives call it the "burung-yakis," or monkey-bird. De han, at that time a naturalist in the Moluccas, later told us that he had discovered several new species of birds on Bacian just prior to our arrival there. I think it was in this forest, beyond the ra, that i first noticed Joseph and Tet drawing together. Mother, at fifty-Eight, was tiring, and lagging behind. I was alternately falling behind and running ahead, but Joseph and Tet remained together, and whenever i came upon them they were always deep in conversation. I was glad to see them so, for they did seem perfectly matched--Joseph dark and manly, Tet fair and lovely. The wilderness did nothing to detract from her beauty. On the contrary, it brought from her something more. Her flushed cheeks shone with perspiration. Her clothes, wet from more perspiration, clung to her slender form. She was a budding bloom just then, a mixture of virgin and woman that any man might have craved to hold in his arms. Mother grew more and more weary, and developed cramps in her lower legs. I kept running ahead, dropping my pack, and running back so that i could carry hers. Then i would push even further forward with hers, drop it, and run back for my own. so we progressed, until we came to a giant nettle patch, where it began to rain. The nettles were like those found in the forests of north America, but much larger, and with a sting that burned like fire. Try as we might, we couldn't avoid them, for they grew all across our path. They brought welts to our skin wherever we touched them. Soon we broke from primary to secondary forest, and the light came streaming deliciously in. I cannot remember there being any gardens there on this first trek to Babang, but i remember seeing plantings there later. At any rate, the trail began its descent, and we caught glimpses of a large tree, a vast and tranquil sea, and the mountains of Halmaheira rising dream-Like along the horizon. By this time, the rain was falling in earnest, and our path, along with the whole slope, had become one muddy stream. The ground was very slick where the water streamed over the clay earth, and mother, who already had cramps in her legs, kept falling, her dress getting covered with mud. even i fell, as i hurried back and forth to help mother with her pack along these last few hundred yards to the sea. At last, we came out at the water. To our left was the great tree, and a Chinese store, and to our right, rising on stilts, the village of Babang. We later became friends with Kim, the daughter of the Chinese merchant. She was a girl of about sixteen at the time, but she was in love with an Indonesian government official, who was being held for embezzling some ten or twenty thousand rupiahs in government funds. I suppose that we became Kim's friends because of tet, who was half Chinese, while Kim, i believe, was full-Blooded. Tet was seventeen. At the store were sold whatever essential commodities the people might need, though i can only remember the bagea and the incense. The incense was little more than damar gum, but it stirred my curiosity about the beliefs of the people. Bagea is a very hard, brittle snack made of sago meal ground up with canarium nuts, and baked over the fire in earthenware moulds. the flavor is unique, and not at all unpleasant. But to eat bagea requires very sturdy teeth. This bagea came in larger pieces, and had a drum-Like shape, not the rounded cone shape we were used to in Ambon. Chapter 6. With the raja of Babang. Turning right, we proceeded toward the village, where we stopped at the very first house. It was the home of the raja of Babang. A fairly large structure built out over the sea on stilts, it had a spacious verandah at the far end commanding a view of the other houses and the hills. An unpaved road led on through the village, with houses on either side. On the shore, in front of the raja's verandah, was beached a large Galela canoe. The sea hardly stirred around the stilts of the raja's house. We were invited to ascend the steps to the verandah, and here we made our home for the next several days. Babang was a Moslem village, and the raja had four wives. It was not recommended that one should have more. The raja was a small, wiry man. Light-hearted and merry, he had a typical Arab sense of humor. Not that he was Arab, but he was a Moslem, and this was his cultural propensity. Later in the afternoon, a porter arrived from Labuha, also sopping wet from the rain. He was dressed in only a pair of shorts, and carried on his back a rusty five-gallon biscuit tin. Removing the round lid, he produced the raja's mail, in good shape despite the heavy rain. He showed us sores on his tough, bare feet, and said, "Pece makang," meaning, "the mud ate them." The mud evidently contained some bacteria or chemical that was eating through his skin, especially about the bases of his toes. The floor of the raja's house was paved with large strips of the tough outer bark of the "nibong" palm. These were arranged concave downward across the joists, to which they were lashed in place. Part of the house lay over the water, and part faced onto the gravelly road. The kitchen was situated out over the water, far out of sight, to the rear. This provided a convenient means of trash disposal for the women, who had only to throw any waste out through a back window, or scrape it through a slat in the floor, and the sea would wash it away. During the following days i spent hours on the raja's verandah, gazing out across the hills or the sea. Schools of small fish swarmed around the barnacle-studded stilts that supported the house. But the upper portions of these poles also teemed with life, as i found later, when i put my hand on a patch of soft, gooey fungus of some sort or other which had taken hold on the moist wood. Gazing beyond the houses of the village, i watched in awe as great white cockatoos flew back and forth across the green backdrop of a beautiful hill, the slopes echoing with their mighty cries. Tet and i later found this hill to be covered with forest, but relatively clear of undergrowth, and ideal for hiking. We climbed together to the summit, where we carved our names into the base of a giant tree. The trees there had great, protruding roots, upon which we could sit. Upon some of these we could beat, as on a drum, producing resounding thuds. I had mother's box camera along, and with it i took a snapshot of Tet, sitting in the shadows beneath our great tree. I also took a shot of the view of the valley, and the distant hills. It was a scene which i shall never forget, that sea of coconut trees spreading into the distance in the afternoon sun! Descending another way, we came out onto a lovely white-sand beach, totally devoid of any other human life, and along this we walked back northward, side-by-side, to Babang village. Another day, we borrowed a canoe, and mother, Joseph, Tet, and i paddled north to Bori. We could see Bori islet from the raja's house, and Bori was an animist village which lay just beyond. Paddling out across the glassy water in the morning, we encountered other canoes near the mouth of the Saioang, with men-folk strangely clad in the batik turbines which were so much worn among the older Tobelo men there. Reaching Bori islet, which we rounded to sea-ward, we came upon the most radiant coral gardens i had ever seen in my life. We mused in wonder at the myriad life forms, the mid-morning sun slanting at about forty-five degrees into the crystalline sea. Even now, i doubt if i have ever seen coral gardens anywhere to rival those of Bacian. The sea-water, too, must have been some of the clearest in the world. We drifted and gazed, so absorbed that i lost all awareness of anything else in space and time. It must have been thirty minutes to one hour before the spell was broken, and we realized where we were, and that we'd best be pushing on. Minutes later we were at Bori village, and had beached our canoe upon the brilliant white sand. There we were amazed to hear the sound of weeping, and of great, heaving sobs. Approaching, we found two sisters crying over their brother, who had just then returned from many years absence in Obi, where he had been cutting wood. He wore traditional Tobelo-Galela dress, a batik turbine wound about his head, and he was sitting just above the beach on a low para-para, built in front of the houses. He was weeping too, and they were improvising a chant, or lament, in their native tongue, recounting the events of the intervening years. This strange sight was a beautiful example of what i later came to know as "aloha," in Hawaii. I also found that such chants, together with weeping, are common to almost all peoples of the pacific area. Joseph and i walked northwestward to the stream, and there we encountered a beautiful island girl, only a sarong about her body, busily washing clothes in the sparkling water. I will not easily forget the glowing brown skin of her bare shoulders and back, and above them, her dark wavy hair. She recognized us, and we exchanged pleasant words. Bori village was infinitesimally tiny in those days, and i have no idea what it is like now. Its inhabitants were primitive Moluccans, Tobelo or Galela people, and they spoke a language we could not understand. A few of them knew some words of Malay. The girl at the stream had spoken to us in fluent Malay, but she seems to have been from outside. I will always remember the beauty of that morning, and that place. The people, the sea, and the white sand. Joseph and i walked back to where mother and Tet were, greeting people here and there along the way. Then we all loaded up, and pushed off once more in our canoe. We headed back toward Babang, this time by way of the passage between Bori islet and the mainland. We stopped at a beautiful spot for our picnic lunch. There Joseph and i went for a swim while mother and Tet prepared our food. The water was incredibly clear, dropping off suddenly into depths of pure blue. I ferreted out a streak of cowardice in Joseph then, for he refused to dive deep where the water was blue. indeed, the water was so blue that i was also frightened, if nothing else, then of such a pure color. But we didn't know what sharks might be lurking there, and these were strange waters to us, so it was really no wonder. The sea was like glass, and we romped and swam freely over the warm, shining sand. After lunch, we shoved off again, but suddenly the whole aspect of the place changed. the skies grew dark and lowering, and we could see that the water beyond Bori islet was being whipped up into whitecaps by a furious wind. We decided to shelter by the isle, and wait for the storm to pass. It was evidently one of those afternoon disturbances, complete with lightening, thunder, and rain, so characteristic of the Moluccan islands during parts of the year when huge strato-cumulus clouds build up over the land during the day, then burst with a vengeance in late afternoon or evening. We found shelter among the mangrove trees that completely surrounded the islet. We sat chatting as we waited in our canoe. Once or twice, there were sounds in the water behind us, and Joseph brandished my light spear, but nothing harmful materialized on the surface. The crocodiles of Bacian were known to grow to about thirty feet in length, and we were wary, sitting there among the mangrove trees. Much later, the storm subsided enough for us to get through, and we struck out across the rough waters for the raja's house at Babang, were we could see the village lying low on the water. Arriving at dusk, we were received by the raja and his people with some concern. In those days we also visited Kampung Baru, or Saioang Baru Village, a kilometer or two northward, past Kim's father's store. Situated on the shore, it held a good many people. They were animistic Tobelo tribespeople. Many of them had very unusual names. among the males were Manis, Cinta, and Cium, sweet, love, and kiss, respectively. Their ancestors had migrated to the shores of Bacian from Halmaheira about 100 years before. Some of their houses were built out over the water. Others were built on dry land. Some of the houses were built of bamboo-lath and plaster, but most of these were only partially finished when we were there. The people had a new-found affluence from their copra plantations, and wanted cleaner, more permanent dwellings for the future. We prayed for one young couple, Samalang and his wife, who had been unable to produce children. We simply stood outside and prayed with them in our usual way, but not long afterward, she conceived, and gave birth to a child--boy or girl i can't recall. I was told that later, when illness struck, they resorted to magic, and lost this child they had received from The Lord., she conceived, and gave birth to a child--boy or girl i can't recall. I was told that later, when illness struck, they resorted to magic, and lost this child they had received from The Lord. Chapter 7. Voyage to Bibinoi. How it all happened i can't recall, but somehow mother and the raja decided that we should voyage with him to Bibinoi in his large canoe. We had difficulty finding any kind of provisions for the journey, but we were able to lay in a supply of bagea from kin's father's store. As usual in the Moluccas, we had some difficulty getting started, but it was still fairly early in the morning when we finally did get under way. With us were the raja and a couple of paddlers or so. The raja's canoe was a large Galela canoe. Such Galela, or maheira canoes have deep hulls, constructed of planks pegged onto one another, and onto a heavy dugout that serves as keel. The hull is probably parabolic in section, designed to cut deep into the water, and thus minimize sideways slippage under sail. The Moluccans drive their hardwood pegs in at cross angles, making it virtually impossible for them to work themselves loose. The outriggers are supported by two great hardwood struts lashed in place by strips of rattan skin, which pull them down toward a crosspiece deep in the bilge. Rattan skin is one of the strongest lashing materials available in the jungle. These powerful lashings help hold the whole body of the canoe together by clamping the pegged planks down on top of one another, and onto the heavy dugout that serves as the keel. The outrigger floats are the only thing that keeps the whole structure from capsizing the moment it enters the water. Such vessels were never meant to sail without them. But with outriggers in place, these large canoes are so stable that cabins are built on them, extending outboard from the top of the hull on either side. The raja's had ample sleeping room for two or three people inside. Two or three shorter struts are fastened across the hull between the outrigger struts, and these become the joists for the floor of the cabin. I can't remember the exact material from which the floor of the raja's canoe was fashioned, but it was probably of smooth planks, or a lattice-work of bamboo lath. The walls may also be made of boards, but a lighter, yet very strong alternative is sago thatch, clamped in place by long strips of bamboo lath. The roof is made of this latter material, and has the shape of the roof of a house, though with less slope, the ridge-pole running fore and aft. Such roofs are so strong that they can hold several persons sitting, crawling, or lying on top. The sail, when not in use, is held in place by a fork at the aft end of the roof-ridge. Around the cabin, and extending still farther out from the hull, is an area of bamboo-lath decking, very light, but Amazingly strong. This enables the crew to move quickly about in emergencies, and provides more room for relaxing or sleeping when the weather is calm. A small fire box is usually provided just forward of the mast, somewhere near the forward entrance of the cabin. All woodwork is worn smooth by the elements, and by the touching of many hands. Nautically speaking, these vessels are capable of considerable speed when humming along under full sail. To load a maheira canoe, the crew generally pushes it into the water first, so as to minimize the effort required to move it across the sand. Once in the water, either partly or all afloat, the floor-boards or lattice floors of the cabin are laid aside from the area over the hull, and cargo is lowered between the gunwales. Some may carry up to three tons burden. Cargoes include "tumangs" of fresh sago meal, coconuts, copra, pottery, china-ware, bolts of cloth, sarongs, axes, machetes, salt fish, spices, and other items. A "tumang" is a container made of sago leaves, shaped like a cone with the point cut off at the top. When loading is complete, the flooring material is replaced, and pandannus mats are spread. The female passengers then put down their soft pillows, and take up positions beside wooden traveling chests containing valuables and clothing. I suspect that the name, maheira, used in north Buru, is somehow linked to the name of the island, Halmaheira, since Galela village is situated there, and such canoes are also called "Galela" canoes. We struck out across the reefs through the sparkling, shallow water, and were entranced once again by the sights that greeted our eyes from below. This time, however, we saw far less splendor than on our journey to Bori, for it was still fairly early in the morning, and the sun had not reached that critical height needed to bring all the colors to life. The orderly lines of our wake were probably all that disturbed that placid sea. As we rounded a promontory, we were surprised by the screeching of monkeys, which were swinging away from us along the hanging vines on the cliff face. The scene lasted only a moment, then all was silent as the troop disappeared into the forest. We put in for a few minutes at Tawa. As i remember it, this was a somewhat dismal little village, near one of the points, with very few people, and hardly anyone who could carry on much of a conversation in Malay. But things were happening beyond Tawa. In those days machete fights were so frequent as to seem almost commonplace in the Moluccas. Now, it seems that a duel had taken place somewhere inland which the raja would have to settle. We put in at some beach or other to let the raja ashore, promising to meet him later, some distance down the coast. At this rendezvous we later put in again, and waited until the raja appeared, leading a burley, panting man, who kept puffing away at his tobacco, which he rolled up in leaf cigarettes. He seemed to be suffering from enphusima, or asthma. I have no idea who he was, but the raja commanded him to paddle, so i took him for one of his subjects. When he slowed down, the merry raja grabbed my spear from where it was fastened to the roof of the cabin. This he pointed menacingly at the man, who had a paddler's position somewhere forward of the mast. The raja was above and behind him. The raja feinted at him with the spear, grimacing with great enthusiasm, and the poor fellow's paddling tempo promptly picked up, to the accompanyment of more huffing and puffing. But the man seemed to take the raja's threats with only mild concern, or else he hid his fear very well, for he managed to keep on smiling. The raja and his reluctant companion had also brought with them some large, elongate, maleo eggs. These had been carefully wrapped in leaves to avoid breakage. The maleo is one of the wonders of nature, for the maleo hen lays an egg that looks almost as large as herself. Not only that, but the shells are so thin that extreme care must be taken to avoid breaking them in handling. These eggs, about six inches in length, are deposited by the female in a large mound of decomposing vegetable matter, in the forrest. Buried deep in such mounds, the eggs remain moist and warm enough to incubate and hatch on their own. That is, if they manage to escape their predators, not the least of which is man. Unfortunately, the shells are so brittle and thin, that many eggs are broken by people digging in the mounds without ever being recovered for food. The mounds may be up to six feet or so in depth, so that locating the eggs is no easy matter. Such mounds tend to be crawling with flees, but this doesn't seem to deter the hunters, most of whom have flees of their own. The maleo bird is about the size of a large pigeon, and jet black in color. They are often seen walking like chickens on the floor of the jungle, but they take quickly to the air when surprised. Once, when he was expecting ambush in the jungle, my friend, Ama, is said to have speared one in mid air as they surprised one another. Since the maleo themselves are good to eat, the people also set snares for them among their mounds. Our journey now took us across the spectacular bay of Songa, where there is an area of volcanism, and tiny islets in the sea. Striking out for Bibinoi, which was still some miles across the water, we passed close to one of these lovely islets. By this time it was probably mid-afternoon. Noting my mother's great enthusiasm for its beauty, the merry raja said, "you like it? I give it to you!" And, but for the Indonesian government and its laws, we knew he had power to do so at his whim. By then, i suppose mother was beginning to wonder if our merry raja might not be considering her as possible candidate for the position of wife number five! Just about then, our party got a beautiful laugh. Joseph had curled up to sleep in the cabin, and, dead to the world, lay sucking his thumb. What a strange sight, indeed, to see this powerful man curled up on the mats with his thumb in his mouth like a baby! It was a sight to be remembered, and it was a long time before Joseph could live it down! Now the tiny wavelets started flowing with us, and, for the first time, we hoisted our sail. There wasn't really much wind, but it was just enough to help us along, and make things even more lovely on that beautiful last leg of our journey. We sailed in a world of dreams, across the deep bay of Songa to the village of Bibinoi. It was the memory of this bay, many years later, that inspired part of this poem. Note that Bibinoi is also the name of the hill that stands behind the village: Before these winds we must sail, And before these seas toil, Until, at last, Our long canoes we beach On the shores of Bacian, Never more to roam. Through these sheets of rain, Past this swirling foam, Until, at last, Our long canoes lie hidden To the lee of Halmaheira, Never more to roam. Beneath the lowering skies ahead, Across the heaving swells below, Our long canoes must swiftly slice Beyond the shores of Morotai, Never more to roam. On these long canoes must race, Beyond this ocean's shimmering face, Till there, in twilight silence, Bibinoi looms, And on the bay of Songa Drift our long canoes, Never more to roam. Waikiki, 1962. Partly inspired by Peter Buck's "Vikings of the sunrise." The ridges trailed off on either side toward the blue of infinity at the head of the bay, where, we knew, lay the village of Songa. We continued to steer a southeasterly course for the opposite shore, drawing near to the land somewhat late in the afternoon, when the rays of the tropical sun grew milder, and took on a golden hue. Then, quite near the village of Bibinoi, we came upon a most remarkable sight. It was a Butonese sailing vessel, of about fifteen or twenty tons burden, lying peacefully at anchor near the shore. The sea bore a dream-like serenity, reflecting the boat, its mast, the forrest, and the splendor of the vault above us. The vessel itself was bathed in the undulating golden sunlight, which was being reflected back up to her from the oil-smooth swells. The weather-beaten woodwork of her mast shone with a glorious light, and boomerangs of gold danced along her hull. She was evidently waiting for a cargo of copra from ashore. In all this wilderness, there was never the sound of an engine: not of boat, nor of plane, nor of automobile, nor of electrical generator. Furthermore, the transistor radio was unknown. There was nothing to pollute, disturb, or break the great silence and dignity of that place. To people of the industrialized world, i know, even the thought of such a thing may be foolish, or meaningless. But i have heard the silence, and i know what it is really like, and because of this my universe will never be the same. Before long, the sounds of the village were reaching our ears, and the stilt houses of Bibinoi were rising from the water before us. Below one of these we beached our canoe. Bibinoi seemed to have one of the largest populations of any of the places we had visited on Bacian, and there was that bustling air of activity about the place, so characteristic of Moluccan villages in their prime. The people, again, were animists of a Tobelo or Galela background, and spoke very little Malay. The Moslems were already making inroads, and there were whisperings about villagers being forced to prayers. I have heard such reports from many sources, but, unfortunately, the Moluccans keep no written records, so such historical facts are quickly lost with time. Also, to be held responsible for revealing or documenting such coercive activities by people in power could easily mean death. The rulers were in power because they were wily, literate, and intelligent, and it was unthinkable for illiterate villagers to win legal battles before any government against men such as these. At any rate, by persuasion Or coercion, we learned that the people of Bibinoi embraced Islam soon after we left. We were given a tiny room in a house built on stilts, part of which was suspended over the sea. Unsatisfied by Kim's father's bagea, our stomachs were crying for food. But all we got was a maleo egg or two that the raja and his wheezing companion had brought to the canoe. The raja, on the other hand, fared better than us, for we saw one of his party killing a chicken. We knew no one, and there were no stores. We couldn't even buy sugar or rice. I am confident that with the experiences of later years, i might have found something to eat in that village, but we simply didn't know enough then, and so had to go hungry. At Bibinoi there was a stream, and thither Joseph and i resorted to bathe. There we chanced upon Hein, a man who had started coming to our meetings in Labuha. He was muscular and brown, and had been a rebel involved in some kind of jungle warfare, the details of which i never learned. Like the girl at Bori, he spoke fluent Malay, and seemed to represent the more modern breed of Bacian islander. the literate people of the land. Hein was strange in many ways. In our meetings at Labuha, he would kneel and pray with the others. But Hein, staring straight ahead with wide-open eyes, seemed to laps into some kind of trance, and mother thought he was possessed of a devil. It was said that Hein knew the use of the black arts, and mother associated many of the cases of demon possession she encountered in Indonesia with "guna-guna," or native magic. But mother didn't seem to have the power to exorcise this demon at Labuha in the way that she had had in other meetings in other places. This may have been because her own faith was at something of a low ebb there. At any rate, we never really got Hein delivered. He eventually drifted off, and i never heard of him again, though i will always remember him for the colorful character that he was. After our bath, Joseph and i returned to the village. We found the room to which we had been assigned was so narrow that there was barely enough room for one person to stretch out between one side and the other, and barely long enough to sleep four bodies side-by-side in the other direction. Thus, to keep the boys and the girls apart, we ended up sleeping in the following order: first Joseph, then myself, then mother, and finally Tet. As we lay on the mats, our bodies nearly filled the entire floor. In the morning, after the others had left, i found that our tiny room could doubly very well as latrine. The large slabs of rough-cut nibong palm 0 bark left many convenient openings in the floor. The only disadvantage in the design were that these same gaps let in chilly drafts of night air, and made it very easy to loose small articles, such as knives, wrist-watches (Not that we ever had any wrist-watches), and matches, etc. Breakfast was scrambled maleo eggs by the hearth, on the deck facing the sea. The morning sun was spectacular, streaming in upon us from the east. Reflected from the sea, it struck the decking and stilts of our house with fierce energy, and the waters came alive with movement and color. That evening, we held a meeting, and the people gathered about us in their hundreds to hear the word. Mother was deeply moved by the faces of the young men, who appeared to hunger and thirst for truth. Perhaps it was at this point that Joseph first felt the desire to remain behind in Bacian. Mother seemed to sense a great spiritual power there, and she felt that, if we had only had the time, many would have been won for Christ. But for some reason, i am not sure why, we had to leave. Whether it was because we were unable to find food, or housing, or transportation, or what, i can't now recall. At any rate, we returned to Babang with the raja in his canoe the next day. I remember nothing of the return journey. But when we arrived at Babang, mother said that we had returned none to soon, as we were just in time to catch the next k. p. m. steamer to Ambon, if only we could make it to Labuha in time. But Joseph felt that god was leading him to remain in Bacian, so that he could minister among the Tobelo and Galela people there. He approached mother with this plan, and she readily agreed. He decided to base in Kampung Baru, or Saioang baru, already mentioned, just north of Babang. With this in mind, he began making contacts there. For several reasons, i believe that Joseph was led of the lord in this thing that he was doing. The holy spirit seemed to be heavy upon him, motivating his life, and he was cooperating as best he could. Of course, he went with us to Labuha, where we spent another day or two together. During this time, he opened his heart to me, pouring out his feelings for Tet. It was true that only about a year before, Tet had lost her beloved mother; and Joseph could easily see the delicate, helpless child so needful of his protection and care. At that time Joseph, who was only eighteen or nineteen, had already gained a high level of mastery over his body. He handled the javelin and the machete with the greatest of ease, and looked as if he could hold off an army. Yet inwardly he was sensitive and tender-hearted. We spent long hours walking and talking in the evenings, and he told me of a time when Tet had turned to him for help at Bibinoi. She had had to "go to the bathroom" at night, and had asked him to come along and stand guard. Unable to see her, he had still been to close to avoid hearing the trickle of her urine as it fell to the water, and this had disturbed him. I sympathized with Joseph completely. So completely, in fact, that his feelings for Tet began to arouse similar emotions in me. But my feelings were not fully formed, and, naturally, i tried to keep them suppressed. I also offered myself as go-between for Joseph, something one might be expected to do for a friend in the only culture i then knew. I have since learned that the custom of having a go-between is prevalent in many cultures where romance and courtship are suppressed, as they were there. Joseph and Tet were both my friends, and i believed in the human principles governing their lives, and was willing to stand with them against the world. This in turn made me feel important and needed. There was no malice in any of my plans. Joseph, with all his male prowess, could not bring himself to express his feelings directly to Tet, so i would explain them for him. Thus Joseph and i wandered through the streets of Labuha, talking of things far to sacred for anyone else to hear. Chapter 8. Destiny. The next day, once again, we boarded the Kaimana, then spent hours waiting for the time of departure. I remember Joseph, powerful body erect, sitting pensively in the salon, rhythmically spinning his hands in his athletic manner. Such movements as these he seemed to study. I later saw the same trait in another friend, tung ji bo, who had been a student of Chinese martial arts. The Kaimana's whistle blew once, then twice, and it was time for Joseph to disembark. So i left Bacian with a commission from Joseph for Tet. But Tet was another matter. There were certain depths of her personality that even i could not fathom, though i lived ever so near her for so long. And i suppose that i have never fully understood her to this day. Was it really true that she wasn't drawn to Joseph? Or did she find herself yielding to him, but feel herself too young to get involved with someone she could actually marry? Did she turn to me as a means of escape? Or was what she said strictly true, that she was going through a period of emotional crisis caused by the death of her mother? Probably a combination of all these things. At any rate, she turned to me. To understand the events of the next few days, let me pause to explain our sleeping arrangements aboard the k.P.M. ship, "Kaimana." We were now traveling first class: not deck. The door of our cabin opened onto the deck to port, somewhere abaft the lounge, or salon. Mother's bed was on the left as one entered, while Tet and i had the bunk-beds on the right. I had the upper bunk. She slept below. The bath and restroom facilities were somewhat forward of our cabin, and farther to port, but still a little aft of the lounge. Tet and i had long discussions during those times when we found ourselves in the cabin alone. Our friendship deepened. I discharged myself of my promise to Joseph with all sincerity, albeit with somewhat less enthusiasm than i had originally planned. That night, i think, Tet was weeping. I think this was how our hands first met in the darkness, that it was with the idea of comforting her that i first held her hand. From then on we spent many hours in the darkness hand-in-hand. Perhaps neither of us knew it then, but i think already i was wanting Tet, and she was wanting me. I believe it was on that cruise that i became physically a man She went through a period of weeping which i could but imperfectly understand. The only reasons she could give were her feelings of vulnerability and helplessness after loosing her beloved mother. She wept in the cabin, and sobbed in the bathroom, and the Dutch officers, always interested in young girls, pressed Me for an explanation. To them the facts were obvious--Tet and i sleeping in the same cabin with only the old lady. Those sobs in the bathroom, they reasoned, were sobs of remorse for what we had done. Yet my relationship with Tet never once included sex. As a matter of fact, in all the time we were together, we never once touched one another in any place that would have been covered by our ordinary every-day clothes. "what did you do to her?" they probed with lascivious curiosity, and i was unspeakably embarrassed, and filled with loathing. Their ways were as different from mine as those of a fish from a bird. How sad that they could not see our higher way of life, and mistook mother's genius for the dotings of a silly old church-woman who was being fooled by two youngsters making love right under her nose. They could not see the bond of trust that held between us. They could not sense our purity of spirit, or understand how it was that, among us, there was never any need for supervision. This was always the mark of mother's greatness. She had about her person a tremendous spiritual power that always kept things right. I cannot recall ever being watched, or being made to abide by taboos and rules. I was always responsible for my own actions, and totally free. And she somehow knew that i would never betray her trust. Looking back, i am still astounded at the level of humanity she was able to evoke in the people around her, regardless of who or what they were. The only thing i can put my finger on is that she was always intolerant of people who evidenced a wrong attitude, and had a way of quickly eliminating such persons from her following. Beyond this, all i can say is that it was a gift from god, something i took for granted then, but which i have never been able to find again among my fellow men. At any rate, Tet and i kept holding hands in the darkness, and she was comforted. And so we arrived back at Ambon, and on to Kate-Kate. Things must not have changed very much during our absence from Ambon, for it wasn't long before mother and i and Tet were off once more on our way to the north. Of this next cruise, i remember nothing. Arriving back in Bacian, we found Derek and Marie still at Labuha, where we had left them. Marie had become pregnant, but nothing else had been accomplished as far as we could see. Of course, we were looking for progress in the work of the lord. They had been living off food cooked by a Chinese caterer for most of the time we had been gone, using up the money that mother had left in their hands. Mother's followers had been falling off. Or, perhaps i should say, had been shaken off like ripe fruit from the branches of a tree. And Derek and Marie were the next to go. In the end, it was mother and i and Tet in the house beside the prison, and poor Joseph across the island at Saioang Baru. Chapter 9. By the rivers of Eden. We took up our journey again to Babang, but this time we had better facilities. Joseph had established a foothold at Saioang Baru, and probably through him, Mother had been able to rent a crumbling little house on the beach between there and Kim's father's store. The spot was perfectly idyllic. Before us, at the foot of the sand, spread the murmuring waters of Babang bay. Around us grew a plantation of coconut trees, and behind us was the jungle. A world war ii bomb crater marks the spot, just a little inland and to the right (Facing inland) of where our cottage stood. The house itself was roofed with a thatch of sago leaves. Its walls were made of lengths of bamboo that had been split down one side, struck repeatedly in a lengthwise direction with the tip of a machete so that they would split in numerous other places, laid out flat, stripped of their partitions, and stood on end. The floor was of fine gravel, which made a crunching sound whenever someone walked through the room. There was only one room in the house. Entering from the beach, one first walked through the small, open verandah. Then in through the door to the only room of the house, which had a bamboo bed running along its left wall. At the back wall was another door, which led into the kitchen, where we built our cook fires on the bare floor. At night, i slept in my sleeping bag, which i laid out parallel to the beach on the gravel floor, my head to the south. Mother and tet shared the bamboo bed, their heads inland, toward the west. Mother was amazed at the coldness of the lively down-drafts from the hills, which came whizzing through the walls in the wee hours of the morning, chilling her body through the thin pandannus mat and the bamboo lath of her bed. Here we enjoyed a splEndid relationship with the Tobelo people of Saioang. These were lovely people indeed. I remember especially one beautiful morning that a couple came to our little house, bringing with them a pot of hot tea and some tiny fried bananas, which they had prepared at home, in Saioang Baru. They were neatly dressed in their traditional garb, He in his batik turban. They would not sit on the pandannus mat of Mother's bamboo bed, The only piece of furniture in the house as far as i can remember, But turned up the corner, and sat on the bare, split bamboo beneath. We enjoyed the tiny fried bananas, and the tea that they served us, and were intrigued by their strange customs and gentle manner. We regarded each other with mutual respect, as was always the case in our dealings with the noble Tobelos. It was difficult to communicate with them, since they knew precious little Malay, and we knew no Tobelo, but we made up for this with the polite manners and smiles that passed between us. We also got to know the boys of Saioang Baru. There was Cinta, meaning "love," a lad of about ten. And his older brother, Cium, meaning "kiss." Cinta was always puffing a cigarette, and sitting around on logs and roots, his sarong about him, shivering with malarial chills in the heat of the day. Cium was becoming a hunter, like their father. Their family name was Palihema, one of those beautiful old Moluccan names that had a Hawaiian ring to it. The lad who became closest to me was Endi, of the Gulinga household. He was about my age, or perhaps a little younger, and exceptionally bright. His sister had bled to death from a cut on her finger not long before our arrival, evidently a sufferer of hemophilia. With Endi i entered into an eternal pact of friendship. He proposed that we become everlasting friends, and that wherever our paths should cross, we should always recognize this pact, and support one another. I agreed, and gave my solemn word. I have remembered our agreement many times, but it has now been over twenty-eight long years since i have seen Endi, and i have no idea what has happened to him. I only hope that someday our paths really will cross again, and we will be able to give to one another the support of brotherhood and friendship we once pledged. From time to time, we were also visited by strangers from afar. People in Tobelo canoes, who came sailing across the placid sea. I especially remember one man who came to visit us sailing in his canoe. He was middle aged or older, wore the traditional batik head turban, and on his finger a long and beautiful ring. there were many gem stones in the Bacian area, "batu Bacian," or Bacian stones, as the people called them, but i am not certain as to just what they really were. Probably jasper, i suppose. This man had one of these beautiful stones mounted on his ring. One day Mother and tet and i went exploring along a splEndid "barangka," or dry stream bed, which ran parallel to the path to Labuha, and passed right by the foot of the little hill that tet and i once climbed. The lower slopes of our hill had since been cleared of forest, and a large monkey was sitting at the top of the clearing. As we approached, he retreated to the cover of the trees. The stream bed was strewn with clean sand, pebbles and boulders in the usual fashion. A great stillness hovered in the air. Mother had always loved to look for interesting objects on the ground, and she found many fascinating rocks. There were many fragments of the foliated rock with the shiny grains, which i have described before. Tet and i found a sirih vine growing at the barangka's edge, and sampled its inimitable fragrance. We returned to our little house late in the afternoon. One evening, we held a meeting in the village. When an opportunity arose, i went out and walked among the houses to see the response of the people. I came upon Endi's father, Bapa Gulinga, who was listening from his house, and began to talk to him about the lord. He accepted the things i said, and decided to become a Christian. This was the first time such a thing had ever happened to me. The meetings at Saioang Baru were never all that successful. Once, Mother tried using an interpreter, but she gave up the idea immediately when she felt that the man was either preaching his own sermon or embellishing her words with ideas of his own, and she could not tolerate either. One of the problems might have been that Mother and the Tobelos were too preoccupied with the problem of communicating on the logical level to be able to achieve any meaningful contact on the emotional and spiritual plain. Also, i believe, there was too much new ground to be broken in the case of the Tobelos, who did not have the benefit of two or three centuries in the Christian traditions. I believe this is precisely why Christ did not appear until about 1,500 years after the giving of the law, which Paul called a "schoolmaster." And this is why the scripture says that "in the fullness of time, Christ was revealed." But even with a tradition of one and a half millenia under the law, Christ still found dissatisfaction with the response of his followers, Not to mention the other Jews. Without the firm foundation of the law, could we ever have heard anything of the gospel? I doubt it. I think it simply takes too long for the laws of god to sink into the hearts of men, and without the centuries during which the principles were established, the disciples would never have been able to apprehend the gospel as they did. And all this while, i was falling in love with Tet. Surely, steadily, my desire for her grew. She was attractive to me physically. Among the fantasies of my youth i remember visions of tet standing fresh and clean in her starched yellow blouse and batik skirt. I was attracted spiritually to her even more. We were the best of friends. I teased her often, helped her cook, and tickled her in the ribs. But there was no way in which i could vocalize my feelings for her. There were three words i simply could not say. And all the time she remained more and more on my mind, and i noticed her more and more often. Once, i saw her swimming with Mother in the late afternoon, dressed only in her slip. But it was not our custom to watch such things, and i did not approach. I felt that she was very pure, and i had no evil intention toward her. Yet, in fantasy, i often saw her dressed in that starched yellow blouse and batik skirt, wrapped her body in my arms, and pressed her bosom close to mine. At last one day, i found the courage to write what i dared not say. We had pencil and paper. She was probably Riting a letter, or making notes from her Bible. My heart yearns even now for the great loneliness and serenity of that place. It was at a table, i believe, on the verandah of our little house. I wrote these words on a small strip of paper: "i love you," in English. I was so embarrassed i got up and went down to the beach. She soon followed, comforting me and assuring me that she shared my feelings, and remarking that even had she not, we would always have been close friends. My emotions had been in a turmoil, but the realization that i loved her and she loved me brought tremendous relief, warmth, and joy. The same day or the next, i was with her in the kitchen, and asked her if i could kiss her. She said i could, and i put my lips to her cheek for the first time. I was quite shaken by the experience. That night, after Mother had fallen asleep, my hand found hers in the darkness. We held hands and stroked each others arms farther and farther up until we were almost to one anothers shoulders. By this time, both of us were literally trembling with desire. Suddenly tet arose, making very sure that Mother didn't hear her, an astonishing feat on a bamboo bed, stepped down onto the gravel floor, and moved ever so cautiously to my right hand side. There she knelt, her left hand on my head, her right hand on my body, and breathless and trembling kissed my upturned lips. I did not respond, for i was afraid, my heart surging with blood. She returned ever so quietly, and got back into bed without making a sound. Thereafter there were many kisses, and many more, without any hope of count. Chapter 10. Creature and creator. I had two problems that had never been solved. these were my terrible temper and my pride. I had learned to fight at an early age, and cannot remember ever running from a quarrel. I was small but wiry, and when i was angry, i hit hard. I had talked back to my mother since the age of seven, and this had become worse and worse, and no amount of thrashing could seem to drive it from me. When i was nine, concerned about the problem, my brother-in-law once offered me a magnetic compass which i wanted very much, if only i would promise him to stop talking back to my mother. But this i could not do. He thought this was because of my pride, and told the other relatives so. But this was not the case. I had pride, it was true. But i refused the compass out of pure honesty, because i knew that it was impossible for me to stop myself from bursting out when my pride was hurt, or when i was angry. Many indiscriminate lashings with the belt had not done the job, and it could certainly not be done by any compass. As a matter of fact, i didn't even know it could be done at all. Besides, i hadn't given it much thought. I considered myself a Christian, but i could not understand that i had not experienced a spiritual birth, because i had no idea what it was like. I could see one thing, however, and that was the fact that i had never experienced any of the spiritual phenomena. I saw Joseph and Tet talking in tongues all the time, just like mother. And now i was in love with Tet, and my exclusion somewhat disturbed me. If Tet could have these things, and if they were real for her, then why not me? Something must be wrong. Looking back now, i don't feel that anything was really wrong. It was simply that god had not yet revealed himself to me. He knew what was best for me, and was working everything out according to his plan. Amazingly, mother seemed to understand this, and never made the mistake of pushing me toward spiritual things, as i have seen other parents do, with serious consequences. Now it was god's own time, and he began to reveal himself to me in ways i will never forget. On our first journey to Bacian, as i have said, my attitudes were changing. I learned to eat many new things that i would never have touched before. I also lived for the first time in a house with no floor. At the same time, i was beginning to see the beauty of what men call "nature." My aesthetic sensibilities were being refined, and i was drinking in the beauty that came pouring in upon my senses. This perceptual development had already begun several months before at Kate-Kate, where i began wandering for many hours through the forest alone. But it was honed to perfection by the expansive wilderness i encountered in Bacian. It was in the winds and the rains and the sun and the sands. Not too mention the scenes of splendor we encountered on our journeys to Babang, Bori, and Bibinoi. My heart leaped and thrilled to the alang-alang grass, the slopes, and the trees; and i was moved to the depths of my being. I knew nothing of galaxies, black holes, or spiral nebulae. Nor was i aware of the dimensions of the sun. But i began to perceive the underlying greatness and intelligence of god, as he revealed himself to me. I realized that the hills had nod stood on their own. Nor had the fishes chosen to flourish on the reef. Above, beyond, and behind it all was a being such as i. It was he who had spawned the universe in all its glory, with infinite intelligence, love, and with pleasures for us to enjoy. So the seeds of praise were planted deep in my soul. In our little house between Babang and Saioang Baru, just as in Labuha, we had to learn where to look for sources of food. I cannot remember how, but Tet and i found an old Moslem woman who had a clearing in the forest. and there we were wont to go for the fruits of the field. She was happy to sell. As i remember her, she draped her old body in black, and wore a string tied round her wrist. When we asked her, she said it was for her late son, and that she would wear it as a sign of mourning until it dropped off of its own accord. Her field was high in the hills somewhere behind Babang, but i can't remember exactly where. All i do remember is the great beauty of the place, with its view, and the slanting rays of the sun striking the variegated hues of the vegetation. Here and there were patches of brown earth, and the charred remains of tree stumps and logs. Again i was aware of the beauty of the material universe around me, and realized that it was god who had made it so. I had mounted the first great step in my knowledge of god, for i had come to recognize him in his primary role relating to humanity--that of creator. Since then, i have come to see that, as far as we are concerned, the surest way of identifying our god, a means of identification used consistently throughout the old testament, is as creator. "all things were made by him, and without him was not anything made that was made." (John 1:3). I didn't realize the significance of this role at the time, for the reality of his being was just beginning to dawn upon my mind. Chapter 11. A new song. Tet and i wanted absolutely no one to know of our love. But there in that vast wilderness, with perhaps some lonely cockatoo shrieking through the vault overhead, i was free to hold her in my arms, and she me in hers. And then we could kiss, and look deeply into each other's eyes, our hearts pounding together. I was secure in her love, and she in mine, and this love seemed to extend beyond us and into our surroundings. I think, for example, that we had a love for that old lady as well, and for the grass, the slopes, and the trees. And from there it was only a tiny step further to realize with what love the creator had formed those rocks and clouds, the cobalt blue of sea and sky, and the many shades of green. So, deep within my being, perhaps still below the level of conscious thought, i was beginning to respond to the great love and compassion with which god had created the universe. Again John, "god is love. He that loveth not knoweth not god: for god is love." --1 John 4:8. After some time, we returned to Labuha, where we stayed for many days. Each morning, before anything else except breakfast, we assembled ourselves for Bible study and prayer. I believe Derek and Marie were still with us at first, for i seem to remember them being in these meetings, but it wasn't long before they, too, had returned to Ambon, and Tet and mother and i were alone. From time to time, when mother saw a definite need, she would use up a good deal of the time herself, instructing us from the word. But mother wanted us to learn to dig in ourselves, so she made us read through books of the Bible that she had selected, each person reading a verse at a time, then making some comment or explanation about the verse he or she had just read. I was happy to have a part, but some of the others had to be prodded. If even mother couldn't see how one could get much out of the particular verse we had read, perhaps because its logic was connected to a preceding or following verse, she would let us read another. Then, when we had done reading, we would all spend some time in prayer. It was in one such meeting that i had my first direct encounter with god. This first encounter, as i remember it now, was related to the sufferings of Jesus, and was a revelation of the love of god. Sweetly and beautifully, i felt the love of god, and for the first time in my life i wept in a meeting. I had never been able to get along very well with mother since i was about seven. During this period my difficulties increased. Things were changing in my life, and our conflicts became almost unbearable. Many times i would leave the house, and wander alone in the forest, where i could seem to find some sort of relief for the anguish of my soul. There were hard words between us again and again, and she was never reluctant to use the rod. But she also taught me from the Bible, and this was the outside criterion i needed to tell me where i was. At the same time, my relationship with Tet continued to flourish, and i learned many things about love. I found that she would do almost anything for me, wear her hair exactly the way i wanted it, etc. And on my part, i was the same toward her. I found pleasure in the daily chores that would help her around the house. Even mother noticed this, and remarked, "you'll do anything that girl tells you to, but you won't do what i say!" One day, mother and i and Tet walked down the beach toward Mandawong. We found much of it to be nothing but a strip of sand, separating the sago swamp from the smooth sea. At one point i walked up the beach to the vegetation, looking for a clear area. I came upon a site strewn with a layer of sago pulp, upon which lay two of those large, aquatic lizards, evidently male and female, side by side. Leaving them undisturbed, i went back for Tet and mother, who returned with me to see the sight. They would have made a beautiful picture, lying there motionless on the sago pulp, with the watery swamp in the background. It was interesting to observe their physical differences, contrasted as they were from one another. On the way home, the sunlight was slanting in low over the water, and Tet and i walked in each other's shadows. We found that both of us were thinking the same thought, that we were a shield to each other, even from the heat of the sun. Many times i accompanied Tet to the bazaar, helping to carry her baskets. I also spent long hours with her in the kitchen while she was cooking, for there were few places i would rather be. I developed a liking for the small tomatos that the people cultivated in Bacian, and would steal them from the nyiru, or shallow rattan basket, in which she kept them while preparing the food. I also stole kisses from Tet. Then, fearing lest mother may have heard, i would press another tomato to my lips, making a similar sound, in hopes that she wouldn't know. Sometimes, too, when pressures became too severe, i would come to Tet there in the kitchen, tell her my troubles, and press my head upon her bosom, and she would soothe me, and things would be alright. The evenings were beautiful at Labuha, and sometimes we went walking in the moonlight. Happy children also saw the moonlit evenings as a time for play. The air was cool, and the light was so clear that everything stood out in sharp relief, almost as in daylight, but all in black-and-white. We could clearly see our shadows on the ground. I remember one evening in particular, when Tet, mother, and i strolled as far as Amasing. Another evening, Tet and i wandered alone along the road to Tomori. The place was desolate, and the moonlight was reflected resplendently from the smooth leaves of the great sago palms. We stopped to sit on a log in a little clearing beside the road, and were surprised to find burning embers, indicating that someone had been there not long before. Later, walking hand-in-hand, we were surprised by a man who caught up with us on his way to Tomori or Mandawong. He was a government official of one sort or another. We hoped that he hadn't noticed too much, because we had still been careful not to let anyone know about our love. At first, my encounters with god were far apart, and it was not until several, perhaps many, days had passed after that first time that the holy spirit came to me again. But when he came, it was much as before--a sense of overwhelming love. I also learned many things about my relationship with god, and as i did, my encounters with god became more and more frequent. Amazingly, i grew increasingly capable of controlling my temper and holding my tongue. Tet's love for me was similar to my love for god. It began to look as if i would do anything for him. I began to realize then that, despite the fact that i had been around the world two times, and lived among rich and poor, educated and primitive alike, i had never once encountered anything so wonderful as this. Seeing the good life possible in America, and possessing a keen interest in physics, i had decided that i would go on to get a higher education, become an electronics engineer, and make $2000 per month. Now, however, i was beginning to identify with Paul, who considered all the things of his former life and ambitions but dung when compared with the spiritual things of his new life in god. To this day, i am uncertain as to the exact hour i experienced my spiritual birth. That is, when i was born again. As i have said, i had believed in the lord since early childhood, considered myself a Christian, and had every intention of living a moral, upright life. I had been in many meetings, sung many hymns, and said many prayers, in almost all of which i had been quite sincere. But now i was definitely changing, and becoming a new creature from within. I ultimately mastered my anger to the point that mother could do almost anything she pleased, my only response being to obey and concede. Overwhelmed by the great love of god, i gave up my old pride. And the more i gave up of my old life, the more often i encountered god. And the more often i encountered god, the more i came to know him, and to understand what he wanted of me, and the more capable i became of doing those things. Thus i gained mastery over forces i could never have controlled before, and possessed an entirely new life in Christ Jesus. But exactly when or where it happened i cannot tell, except that it seemed to be on Bacian. At the same time, something else was beginning to happen to me. But once again, i don't know when or where it all began. Perhaps it was on our first expedition to Babang. Or it might have been at the time i witnessed about the lord to old Gulinga. Whenever or wherever it was, i began to feel a burden and a love for the souls of men, to pray for them, and to witness. But perhaps the most amazing thing of all was the love. In a personal encounter with god it is that one really comes to know what one has heard about his attributes. And the love of god is something that cannot be described. It can only be experienced and known. I had heard about it all my life, but i had never really come to know it, much less experience it. The beautiful thing was that in my encounters with god, not only did i experience and know this love first-hand, but a little of it rubbed off onto me. I had never loved people so much in my life before. I would see people coming home from the forest with heavy loads of wood on their shoulders, and go out and ask to share their burdens with them. They could not understand my motives, but, embarrassed and surprised, made room for me under their loads. I had received from god a tremendous, beautiful, and consuming love, and i loved it. And this love became channeled toward the souls of men. I began to realize that without Christ people were lost and going to hell, and this made me weep for them, and drove me to witness. I had found the most wonderful thing in the world, and it was totally free! Anyone at all who was willing to receive it could have it! Chapter 12. The living stream. So i had found something wonderful, and i loved other people, and wanted them to enjoy it too. But i was frustrated by my lack of ability to witness, and my lack of authority when i spoke. How well i knew the teachings about the holy spirit, for i had heard them all my life. I began to realize my need for the power Jesus had promised his disciples in acts 1:8, and started asking for this power in my prayers. By that time i had asked for the experience of the baptism in the holy spirit many times, of course, since my background had exposed me to an emphasis of its importance all my life. Until that time, however, i had been asking mainly for myselfk I wanted this, i wanted that, and if the holy spirit was good for me, i wanted the holy spirit as well. But the selfish attitudes of my past were not in keeping with my new life, in which my prayers and desires were becoming focused upon the interests of others, and of god. I pressed deeper and deeper into my spiritual struggle, and my encounters with god became more and more frequent, until they came almost every day. Mother had been encouraging and coaching me, and had taught me the meaning of praying without ceasing, and of remaining in god. In other words, not just coming to him when it was time to pray, but remaining with him all through the day. Our humble dwelling by the prison, with its dirt floors, was infested with flies, and my feet and legs were covered with sores. Many times these flies had distracted me when i tried to pray, but i noticed that the farther i got into the things of the spirit, the more control i had over my body, until i could barely even feel the flies. Joseph Latu was there that morning, but Derek and Marie had gone. As i prayed, the holy spirit came upon me as before, sweet, holy, and pure. As usual, i wept before the lord. Then i began praying for the souls of men with tremendous love flowing through my being. At that time, i could finally ask god for the baptism of the holy spirit, no longer for myself, but for others. The power of god came stronger and stronger upon me, and mother and Joseph, and Tet moved in to support me with their faith and prayers. I began, intermittently, to praise god with tremendous exuberance. By then i felt as if my whole being were in the presence of the lord. A strange speech started welling up within me, and i began to speak in tongues. At first i was shaky, afraid to yield. But then i simply gave myself over completely, and let the lord do with me as he would. It was the capitulation of my intellect to the control of my spirit, and i kneeled speaking in tongues for about an hour ere the spirit of god was lifted somewhat, and the tongues subsided. During that time, the only sensation i had of anything supernatural was of a golden light that seemed to fill my whole being. But this was a thing of my mind, and not as if i had seen it with my eyes. When i grew silent, a great peace and power hovered in the room. The experience had been a tremendous, mighty victory, and i could feel that power with me as a arose and sat down. All of us were silent. The sun shone bright outside the open window. Tet stood up, walked to me, and kissed me in public for the first and only time. No one could say anything. I walked outside, and found my friends, children of the town, sitting on our doorstep. They were silent, as if they realized that some transcending experience had happened to me. If they ever doubted my belief in spiritual phenomena before, they certainly had no doubts then. The glory and power of that experience was to change my entire life. Chapter 13. Walking in the sunlight. It was at this time that i gained control over my temper. It would be far from true if i were to say that i never again became angry. No, anger was still definitely a part of my emotional paraphernalia. The difference was that, whereas my anger once controlled me, now i had control of my anger. For anger itself is not evil, but the abuse of the emotion, anger, is what is wrong. To be controlled by anger as i had been was even worse. But from that moment on, i cannot remember ever really losing my temper as before. Nor can i remember ever tearing into my fellow man in a fist fight, as i had so often done. The change in my ability to witness, lead meetings, and pray, was decisive and dramatic. Whatever education or experience embellishes my teaching and preaching today, i still contend that it was then that i became a preacher or witness. For it was precisely then that i gained the authority or power of which Jesus spoke. Joseph returned to Saioang Baru, and for some reason mother had to be there by a certain time too. In those days, i sometimes suffered from periods of fever, which lasted up to four or five days. I don't know what it actually was, but at that time i called it the flu. Now, just when it was time for mother to go, i fell ill with the flu, and was not quite physically up to the trip. Since mother's mission was important to her, after voicing some complaints, and remarking that it was not customary to leave two young people together like this, and that she was placing a great deal of confidence in us, she departed. Tet and i stayed alone in the house, and there wasn't another person in the world i would rather have been with. She cared for me, prayed for me, and encouraged me by reading scriptures. We shared the 121St psalm. But then, just as the fever was leaving me, and i was regaining my strength, Tet fell ill, and it was my turn to take care of her. I can only imagine what poor mother must have been praying and thinking during this time. But here was another of those principles that made mother great. She had an undying faith in her fellow men, as if everyone had in them some basic good. She said that we had an obligation to believe in people until such time as we had some concrete indication otherwise. She felt that if she gave people her trust, this trust would seldom be betrayed. She seemed to make it a principle of her life to give people the benefit of the doubt, and believe in them as much as she could. But if someone betrayed her, then things were different from then on. And for her, amazingly, it seemed to work. This is why she ran the Bible institute with a minimum of rules and regulations. It was her feeling that the more rules and regulations there were, the more offenses there would be. Also, she felt that if she couldn't trust her students while they were with her, there would be no way she could possibly trust them when they were gone. She had no system of punishment whatsoever, although i did see her keep a student on campus once or twice. Her students could offend once or twice, but then, if she felt they were unreliable, she would simply send them home. For things like theft or point-blank lies, however, she might send them home on the first offense. Whatever happened, they would certainly not be set to washing dishes or scrubbing floors, a practice that became commonplace in later years. The idea that someone could somehow pay for something wrong was totally non-existent. If a person had sinned, he or she had to make it right with their fellow men and with god. Then, if god forgave them, and if they were forgiven by their fellow men, they were free and clear, and accepted again by everyone. Mother only demanded sincerity. And if it wasn't there, she knew that no amount of dish-washing or drudgery could help, because that person was unfit for the work of the lord. I never saw the Kate-Kate Bible institute like it was while she was there. The fellowship, the zeal, the sincerity of spirit, were unparalleled. She only asked the students to work two hours per day, and they were free to take whatever foodstuffs they wanted from the fields, and to eat them on the spot. Yet such things as pineapples, bananas, and taro flourished, not to mention the cassava and yams. In later years, the school has demanded four hours of work per day, plus tuition fees. Not only that, but classes are twenty hours per week for all students, with forced study "wajib belajar" periods in the evenings. It would seem as if the students would not have a moment to spare for anything but work and study, and this is apparently what was planned. Regulations proliferate and abound. Yet the students have been consistently rebellious, deceitful, and useless for any good work. Almost every time i have visited the place some poor devil or other has been on probation, washing dishes, scrubbing floors, working over time in the garden, being confined on campus, or something else. Food has become scarce, and the spirituality of the place has withered away to a mere vestige of its former bloom. Gone is the sweet communion that we once knew. So, because of this principle that mother held, she was willing to leave me alone with Tet at the house in Labuha, a thing that would have been unthinkable to most other missionaries i have met, and which, in their case would surely have had disastrous results. Yet we remained true to our own principles, and did what we knew to be right, and all was well. After some days, Tet recovered from her fever, and we were on our way. Our trek across the island was a thing of dreams. There we were, two very young and vulnerable human beings in that vast unknown. Reaching the deepest of those gullies on the "skojo," a gully still spanned by one or two of those heave "kayu besi" timbers, Tet stationed me as sentry on the trail, and descended to the stream for some private physical function. I might have accomplished my task just as well asleep, for there was never a soul who drew near. When all was done, i crossed over on a timber, and Tet scaled the bank on the opposite side. Back on the trail, i teased Tet, telling her i had peeped. I think for awhile i really had her worried. She seemed to alternate from disbelief to embarrassment to shock. Then i assured her that i had only been teasing, and all was well. Her skin was light brown, it was true, but she could sometimes flush a pretty shade of pink. At the ra, we paused on a pebble bar in the middle of the stream. There i selected some small stones, and arranged them into letters, possibly a foot high. And there, emerging from the random chaos of that wild river bed in the rain were those three beautiful words again: "i love you." I feared lest by some means someone might somehow be able to determine what i had written there, so i scattered the pebbles carefully before we went on. Then, satisfied that no trace was left, we forded to the far bank, and faced the great forest. The rain was coming down heavily now, and it was already gloomy enough without the cover of the leaves. We paused for one last moment before moving on to disappear into that great void, and i drew her warm body into my arms. I gazed deep into her dark eyes, feeling her warmth as i pressed her to me in an ecstasy that no words could ever describe. The chilling rain pounded down upon our bodies, and ran trickling over our skin. The only sound in that vast silence was the "hush" of the falling rain. Then, suddenly, i spotted people, and released her, surprised and embarrassed by a party emerging from the trees. I hoped that i had managed to see them first, and that they had not seen anything that might become a reproach. Few things could have hurt me more than to have become a hindrance to the work of the lord. Maybe they were kind, and closed their eyes to what they saw, or maybe they hadn't seen at all. I don't know. Whatever the case, i have never heard anything storied about myself and Tet, and not even my mother ever seemed to know for sure if there had been anything between us. We entered the gloomy forest, and trudged for hours through the dreary twilight, the mud, and the rain. Tet was stunning under those conditions, which seemed only to enhance her beauty. Her warmth was powerful in the chilling rain, and the forest itself was beautiful for the sheer glory of its great gloom. There was something pure and holy there in those mighty trunks, in the tangle of leaves and vines, and the rain. We crossed the Waiamiga, where there was barely a break in the canopy above. We plunged in again, and the giant nettles stung our limbs as we waded through the mud. At last the sky broke through overhead, and we were on the descent through the secondary forest to the sea. Even the rain had vanished, if my memory serves me correctly. We took the trail to the left, which led directly to Saioang Baru. We were surprised and amused when we came to a break, and found a large monkey a little above us on the trunk of a coconut tree. He was also surprised to see us, and slithered to the ground as quickly and gracefully as he could, then bolted for the bushes. Soon we were with mother again in our little house on the shore. During that visit, our relationship deepened with the people of Saioang Baru. I remember one night in particular, when the moonlight made a dream-world of the village. The children and young people were playing on the bare earth of the clearing outside, the "streets" of our village. Others sat and talked on large, open para-paras, or bamboo platforms. I think it was my first real exposure to Tobelo village life. The very atmosphere seemed charged, and we felt like leaping or dancing. I was surprised to find that these young people, like ourselves, liked to fun and joke about such things as romance. And whenever something ridiculous or funny was said, merriment would fill the air. That beautiful night served to cement our relationship with the people, for we were chatting and laughing with them, and they had accepted us as their own. Some days later, after returning to Labuha, we were surprised by the news that our little house had blown down in a wind storm. As mother recalls, we left at eight in the morning, and our little house blew down at about four that same afternoon. When i returned later, there was nothing left of that little bamboo house in which we spent so many lovely days and nights. All that remained was the vast and brooding serenity of the place, and perhaps a few scraps of wood, or bamboo, or thatch, the pebbly area that had been our floor, and the world war ii bomb hole in the back. From Labuha, we went on to Ambon, and thence back to our home at Kate-Kate. I am not sure if it was then, or if it was sometime later, but i was asked to speak in a morning chapel meeting at the Kate-Kate church. I had never spoken in such an important meeting before. But people knew that something spiritual had happened to me, and they wanted to hear. True, i had spoken in youth and children's meetings before my experience on Bacian, but what i had said had been mere logic and word, with little or no effect. After all, no matter how much one knows about what one is saying, it is impossible to give to anyone else anything one does not have. Now, however, things were different. I knew i really had something in me, and such as i had, i gave to the people. My text was the whole of i Corinthians 13. When i stood and read, the power of the holy spirit was upon me with great force, and the people wept as they listened to my words. It was truly a miracle that this young lad, who had probably offended the finer sensibilities of everyone in that congregation, could now stand and speak to them with such humility and love. They were moved to tears, because nothing at all could ever have done this but the power of god, which had begun working in and through me. Chapter 14. Ex-Eden. Whether or not mother ever really knew of my relationship with Tet i cannot tell. But from some of the things she did and said, it was obvious that she must have suspected something. I have a hazy remembrance of some words being said on Bacian, and Amasing hill (It is 1/2/86). Perhaps it was partly because mother was worried about my relationship with Tet, i don't know. It must have been at least partly because of me. She must have felt some concern over the great Changes that had been taking place in my life, and have supposed that i needed a Change. Then, again, it may have been entirely because of her own difficulties and problems. I do not know. At any rate, mother decided to spend some months on the island of Java. I was crushed by the thought of saying good-bye to Tet, but there was nothing i could do. It was thus with the greatest of sorrow that i boarded ship, awaiting departure like a criminal awaiting execution, while at the same time taking great care to conceal my innermost thoughts. The Dutch ships were gone, and we had our first experience of sailing aboard a ship belonging to Indonesia. Our cabin was a good distance down the passageway on the starboard side, and thither i resorted with my pain. Some time in the afternoon our ship left the harbor, and sailed onto the open sea. It was the east monsoon, and i remember long hours nursing my sorrow as the stateroom reeled this way and that. On and on through the lonely night, and then more days and nights following each other, until we came at last to Surabaya. I have never liked Java since, and there are few places i love less than dear old Surabaya, even to this day. One of the first things i remember about the place is having my pocket picked by a bunch of rowdies during what seemed like endless delays. We were treated as if we were the worst possible criminals, and inspected again and again. We even had to pass through check-points where guards went through our clothes. The heat was as heavy as molten lead. When at last we were freed by the lackeys of the establishment, we were driven through the town in a ford convertible by a Chinese gentleman whose acquaintance we had made in Ambon some months before. He was Chan Eng bee, a wealthy Chinese businessman who owned assets in Surabaya and, lately, in Ambon. In Ambon, the government had relieved him of assets worth many thousands of dollars, and he was fighting in vain to get them back. He had owned e.M.A., Ambon's electric company. His house was on Jalan Citarum, #17. Citarum was a small residential street at the north-eastern end of the city. Although the place depressed me, it would probably have been quite acceptable to most people i know. It was a big old house, with a couple of pavilions, in a better part of town. A rich man's house, as a matter of fact. The whole complex was enclosed completely by fences and high walls, and the grounds were populated by various descriptions of dog. My favorite spot was the verandah, and a sitting area under the great mango tree that shaded the pebbly front yard. There we often relaxed, enjoying the ice-cream and other delights of city life. But to me this place was the ultimate boredom. Almost a prison. Day by day my spirit died within me, and i longed for the wilderness and the sea. I tried everything honest i could try, but nothing would fit with me. There were shopping trips, and long b"becak" rides with Gladys, the Chans' lovely daughter, but i was never meant for her or she for me. There were also many lonely wanderings, sometimes in danger from the hostile people of the land, who seemed to loath anyone at all who had a white skin. I cannot remember ever encountering god there except one afternoon, when our hosts, under crushing pressure from their own problems, asked us to pray with them in their living room. It was only Chan Eng bee, his wife, mother, and i. They were surprised to find that i, too, knew how to pray and lay hold upon god. Mother was suffering terribly during much of this time. A terrible tropical ulcer developed from a sore she thought she got from a gnat bite on Bacian. I think it was on her right ankle, inside, right where the skin is thin over the joint. More and more flesh would turn black and rot around the edges, and this mother herself would trim away with a pair of those tiny manicure scissors with the curved blade, until finally her open wound must have been the size of a silver dollar os so. During this time there were two young student physicians living in one of the pavilions. Vitche and henry, i believe. They tried different medications, but nothing would seem to work until finally one of them happened upon a translucent yellow fluid, probably some sulfa solution. Washing with this turned the flesh red around the wound, turned the tide, and started the fleshing growing in again toward the center. By this time it was so bad that mother could hardly stand. She alternated bathing the wound with the mysterious solution and then anointing it with cod liver oil until it was gone. The scar never went away. Some months after our arrival in Java, Joseph and Keri (Kermite) also arrived. They were on their way with us to a conference in Malang. Jerry Lanphier also came, along with my old friend, bill parsons. But bill and jerry tried to stay away from me, as they thought they were men of the world by this time. I have seldom been treated in a more humiliating fashion than i was by jerry during this time. I badly wanted friends of my own kind, and they were all that was available, and yet they wanted nothing to do with me. Little did i know that there was a fundamentally different culture and philosophy of life at work there, one that would cause me great sorrow in later years. Mother wrote a glowing report about the conference for "the pentecostal evangel," and the whole thing was somewhat confusing to me. All i knew was that i felt depressed. Now, however (August 1985), i see the whole thing as worth less than nothing, stifling, and an insult to the dignity of the human spirit. I am sure that it was not only i who was confused. When we reached Ambon, my heart was bursting for the wilds of Bacian, for i felt that surely my old communion with god would be restored, if only i could return. But nothing was ever the same again. At Kate-Kate, i avoided meeting Tet alone. I had somehow outgrown our old relationship, and could not find the words to tell her so. At last, she cornered me, and asked to speak with me alone. We went to the front verandah, overlooking the bay. At that time there were few people at Kate-Kate, and it was evening. I said the unutterable words, cutting her to the heart. The tears welled up in her eyes, and she asked for one last kiss, after which she was gone. If i could take the words of Jeremiah now (After Edna Kaihatu's departure, august 1985), and try to look back to a point in my life where i took the wrong turn, perhaps i would have to settle on this scene, on the old verandah at Kate-Kate. I cannot blame mother. She, like me, was simply doing her even best. No, i would have to take to task the whole concept of western philosophy. Being young and impressionable, and willing to believe that my people were superior, and their culture right, i had accepted what i had been told about marriage, dating, and love. But now, at the age of 43, i think at last i see somewhat clearly the mechanisms that are bringing about the downfall of our society. We are taught early to kill our natural affection, and to destroy those very feelings that would make for stronger human bonds. And this is a sin against the human spirit from which we can never recover. Chapter 15. The Last of Bacian. We returned north, and the sky was like brass. The times i met with god were far between, and precious few. The spell of Bacian had been broken, and my expulsion from Eden had begun. Looking back now (1979), i am struck by a poignant wave of nostalgia, for the last years of my life have been fraught with many failures, tragedy, and perpetual struggle. We moved to an old house that mother had purchased from Waioli (Chinese name Lau Bi Su), a young Chinese gentleman who had just married at the time. The house was large, but crumbling. It was situated on the shore, a little way into the Moslem area of town. The complex was enclosed by a fence, about eight feet high, made of lengths of bamboo, split in half and stood on end. The top ends were sharpened into points to discourage all thought of getting across them. There was a well in the narrow court in the back, and a stinky outhouse at the rear of the complex, by the gate that led out onto the beach. There, it was true, we had to squat in the most incredible fumes, but at least we had some privacy. The government had tried to stop Waioli from selling mother this house, because they wanted it, so mother and Waioli made a gentleman's agreement, and mother paid him for the place in cash. Forty thousand rupiahs, i believe. She never asked for or got clear title to the property. And this fact caused some difficulty for "Sidang Jumaat Allah" in later years. At that time, or perhaps a little earlier, we were joined by a tiny woman named Helena (Len) Talakua, who served in Bacian for possibly one or two years. On my birthday, march 15, 1957, three young men came into the evening service from a nearby island. It was Mandioli, i believe. When the "altar call" was made, they raised their hands to accept Christ, and i felt that i had received a birthday gift worth more than many thousands of dollars. Once, i don't know when, we were trekking toward Babang with Len Talakua in our company, but she had to turn back because of her chronic problems with her own back. Someone had been careless, and let her fall when she was a baby. I don't remember where mother stayed, and i don't think Tet was even in Bacian, but i started living in the house of Bapa Gulinga, at Saioang Baru, where i spent a good deal of time. When mother returned to Ambon, she allowed me to stay on in Bacian and assist Joseph with his work. Joseph and i made the Gulinga residence our home. Old Bapa Gulinga and his wife were like a father and mother to us, and Endi and Lasonte were like brothers. Endi was their real son, but Lasonte was adopted, if memory serves me correctly. They had also had a sister, who had died recently from a cut on her finger. She had evidently suffered from hemophelia. In those days, we made many trips to the Saioang river. After entering the mouth of the stream, we would paddle along a long stretch of mud banks, where people came to dig for the abundant clams. There was a pile of clam shells behind Gulinga's house at Saioang Baru. Further up, the stream would become more and more swift, with long, straight stretches, pools, and rapids. The water was crystal clear. On the banks there were coconut plantations, gardens, and jungle. The river was said to have crocodiles, but i never saw any of them. Nevertheless, we were always cautious, for the crocodiles of the area were known to be killers. Once i was in a large kole-kole with Endi, Lasonte, and others. We were paddling downstream, approaching one of those deep pools where the river makes a bend. Suddenly, dead ahead, we saw a coconut palm leaning so far out over the water that its lower trunk was almost horizontal. On its trunk were perhaps half a dozen wild monkeys. We paddled hard, and the monkeys had a difficult time getting off the coconut truck before we were upon them. A baby was separated from its mother as they reached the cover of the forest. It was left in a small tree by its mother, who had retreated with the other members of the troop. Spear in hand, i stood guard facing the bushes, whence we could hear the mother's grunts. Someone else climbed for the little monkey in the tree. The tiny creature was either shaken loose or else simply threw itself to the ground. Then, unharmed from the fall, it started walking toward its mother. It was so dazed and slow that Endi could easily have caught it with his hands. But Endi was also in a daze. The best he could do was to touch it a few times with the side of his machete before it disappeared into the brush to rejoin its mother. Another day, Gulinga, myself and the boys spent many hours in Gulinga's coconut plantation near the Saioang. Old Gulinga was our steersman, sitting in the stern of our canoe. Near him was propped a stick of wood, at the tip of which burned a hot ember. This would be used to kindle our fire, once we reached our destination in the forest. The Tobelos also knew how to kindle a fire with pieces of dried bamboo, should the need arise, but that was the hard way. i think we were supposed to be gathering nuts, but i don't think i did much. I remember being hungry and bored. The boys were fishing, and caught some "kabus," a fresh-water fish, in a nearby ditch or bog. I was not excited about "kabus" and rice. They used coconut juice for everything, including whetting their machetes. And i think they cooked the rice in coconut juice as well. I used to wash my clothes far up the Saioang, then spread them out to dry on the sand and rocks of an island in the middle of the stream. There were curious tracks all over the place, some of them quite large. There were also signs of bellies being drug between the footprints in the mud. I attributed these to the monitor lizards, which were so abundant on the island. Nevertheless, i always made sure my trusty spear was close at hand. I was dismayed at how my mother's dish towels, which she had left behind, so quickly took on the mildewed look of the jungle. Try as i may, i could never get them white again. One time, i think when mother was with us, there were men chasing a deer on the land, and it swam across the river right in front of our canoe. But whether or not they ever got the deer i cannot recall. One of my favorite pass-times was shooting rapids with the boys. We always used a "kole-kole" when we went to the Saioang, as far as i can recall. The kole-kole is a product of Buton culture, a heavy dugout canoe with no outriggers. While these canoes are built and used mainly by the Buton people, they are used by other peoples as well, and may be found throughout the Moluccas. They are roughly one third round in section, and usually have a hole for a rope or rattan ring at the bow. Shooting the rapids was both challenging and exciting, and the river probably wasn't big enough to make the sport really dangerous. It was a novel experience for me. I had owned and steered outrigger canoes since the age of nine, but i had never had the opportunity of studying the behavior of a canoe in swift currents. It was curious to see how the canoe would move rapidly sideways whenever the bow fell off a bit from facing straight upstream. It seemed strange that the craft responded so sluggishly when moving downstream, and the banks were speeding by. But there was one point beyond which our kole-koles could not go, for the rapids simply became too swift and too shallow. I remember looking inland along a long, unruffled waterway, probably beyond the shallow rapids, which disappeared into the forest. Great trees were reflected in the tranquil water. Also billowing white clouds and blue sky. The great trunks rose from leafy bowers on either side of the stream, their mighty bows arching outward over the water. After mother had left for Ambon, Joseph fell ill with dysentery, and i waited on him for many days, emptying his pan. But his fever continued to rage, and his powerful body grew very weak. He remembered that he had helped himself to some sugar cane he had found growing in a garden one hot day, when he was alone. He had not told the owner, or paid for the sugar cane he had taken, and he thought that this might have been the reason for his illness. When he had confessed this to me, we prayed. One day during this time, a man arrived from Obi in an outrigger canoe. He came looking for us, and told us that he was a member of the Calvary mission church, "Gereja Calvari Pantecosta Missi," of Ternate. This was parsons' mission. We were happy to meet someone of similar faith, but were somewhat dismayed to see the color of his lips, which were red from chewing betel nut. He had come with the idea of praying for Joseph, so that the lord would heal him of his dysentery. But when Joseph saw him, the tables were turned, for Joseph began witnessing to the stranger about deliverance from his betel nut habit. Soon Joseph was sitting up in bed, and praying mightily for him. I was filled with admiration for Joseph because of his spirit, and what he had done. When Joseph was well enough, we returned to Labuha, where better facilities were available for his recovery. We spent some days there together, in the big old house, with Len Talakua. At sometime or other, Tet returned from Ambon to work with Len. Joseph ultimately returned to Babang, and i remained at Labuha with Tet and Len. Chapter 16. A Lament for Long Ago. I taught in the Sunday school, which continued to grow. I also witnessed wherever i could for the lord. I was amazed at the conversion of a small Chinese boy, about four years old. He became a most dedicated Christian, very sincere, and full of the love of the lord. Every Saturday evening they said he would get out his Sunday-school clothes, and made sure everything was ready for the next day. I often saw this tiny lad under the influence of the holy spirit, weeping his heart out to god. But i do not recall ever hearing him speaking in tongues. He was a son of Asiang, i believe, one of the Tjia brothers (Toko Angin Timur in Ambon), who at that time were goldsmiths in the town. (Gunder Sihaialatua thinks he might have been a-hong, who Gunder estimated to be about 32 in October 1985). He, like the other children, remained faithful in the face of persecution. For the communist teachers of the only Chinese school were determined to keep all Chinese children away. Methods, if i remember correctly, included threats and actual physical violence. Mother published an article about this period in the June 16, 1957 issue of "the pentecostal evangel," gospel publishing house, Springfield, Missouri. The elderly couple she referred to were the ex-kepala kampong of Tomori, who lived with his wife at Kilo Empat. I think i remember attending house meetings there, and praying with them, in the company of Tet and Len Talakua. I do not believe i was present when the old man received the holy spirit. I recall that his great regret was that he never came to know the lord until he was so old. He might have been in his 70S, rather than in his 80S, as mother wrote. Their house was of native materials, in a field. It was close to the head of the Amasing river. Outside our immediate group, actually, the Tjia family were my closest friends. The aging father was Tjia sin. His sons were Ji Nam, Akun, and Asiang. The closest of these to me was Akun. He was a fine, hard-working, intelligent man. His education was Chinese, but where he had actually studied i do not know. I would spend hours chatting with him at the little table where he worked. He used an alcohol blow-torch, connected to tank and foot bellows by an assortment of rubber hoses. This blow-torch was always in his hand, or laid neatly to his right. Operating on fumes from the alcohol flask under his table, i was constantly amazed at its versatility. He could use it for the finest work, or, by pumping hard and adjusting a knob, use it to melt pieces of brass in crucibles made from the charCoal of special wood. His drawer held the many tools of his art, and a paint brush to sweep up shavings of silver or gold. His art filled me with continual surprises. His craftmanship included filligre silver work. But it was mainly an endless variety of tiny earrings and pendants of gold. He might have been chained to his desk, except for one memorable day, when he took the afternoon off to go hunting with me. The Indonesians had made it next to impossible to own fire arms, but he had somehow managed to keep an old shotgun over the years. Shouldering this, he set out with me to shoot hornbills in the grove of great banyan trees at Barangka Dolong. If i remember correctly, the great birds were scattered by his very first shot, and we returned with nothing to show for our efforts. I do remember Akun or Asian shooting a tiny bird with their air gun, but i think that was on a different day. The afternoon sun was shining brightly. I took the tiny bird home to our house beside the prison, and Tet fried it. But it was so small that it wasn't worth bothering with. Akun was manly, had a deep streak of courage in him. And there was about him an energy that could be seen in those quick movements of his, a trait i have observed in other Chinese. He was merry, had a fine sense of humor, and smiled a lot. I would often hear him humming or singing "Mao Tse Tung Sta Ling" while he worked. He was probably in his early thirties. But there was a very unfortunate influence working in the Tjia sin family at this time. It was an influence that later destroyed their minds. They were fast being persuaded by Mao Tse Tung's thoughts. They received many beautiful magazines in the mail from Peking, lavishly illustrated with pictures of factories, workers, and beautiful girls, all in living color. These they read avidly, explaining to me and the local boys how china was coming to great glory under the new philosophy, where all men were brothers, and striving for a common cause. There were also comic books, with tales of heros from days of yore. Anecdotes included stories of heros of the revolution who helped stamp out crime. One man gained recognition from Mao Tse Tung because of his wisdom in finding a thief in a crowd. Someone had stolen coins from a vendor of fried food. The man made everyone in the crowd drop their coins into a container of water, and caught the culprit when a tall-tale film of oil appeared. What wisdom! I was amazed to see in them an acceptance of communism which i could compare only with my acceptance of the gospel. Thus, it has never been hard for me to understand the definition, "Christianity without Christ." That is exactly what it was. People were enjoined to love and help one-another, and to sacrifice personal gain for the common good, and there was a brotherhood of man. If i had not had the real gospel, i suppose that i might even have been swept away. I was almost like one of the family with them. I often joined them on break for their strong black coffee and fried bananas or cassava. The coffee was kept bitter and black, but there was an ample supply of Coarse-grained white sugar, into which we dipped our fried snacks. Their breaks were short, and they ate with break-neck speed. The work ethic with them was very strong, yet they seemed happy, and thrived. They would eat heartily, chatting loudly, then rush back to work. The Tjias eventually became rich. but when i returned to Indonesia in 1965, my dear friend, Ji Nam, had become such an hardened communist that he would hardly speak to me. He even warned me about being in Indonesia, which at that time was moving left very fast. When i met him after the attempted coup, he was quiet and non-committal. Akun, on the other hand, remained open and friendly to me. He greeted me warmly when we met him on his way to Makassar on the plane. That would have been on my way to one of my visits with morris in Bandung. During this period i became friends with several young people of about my age. Among them was Yan Patirajawane, who was then known as Yan Mamansa. His mother, Ansi Mamansa, had recently come to the lord. I found him in Ambon when i returned there for a week in October of 1985, and he still held memories of me setting out across the island alone with my axe and napsack. Once, while with Tet and Len at Labuha, i found an abandoned kitten. It was during the monsoon, and it was miserable and cold in the rain. It was somewhere on the beach area, in back of our complex. The poor thing seemed barely alive, and starving. I had heard its mewing outside our fence for some time. Perhaps even days. Feeling pity for it, i brought it in, warmed and dried it by the fire on our "tungku," or hearth. Then i fed it a bowl of milk. I don't think this poor little kitten had ever received such kindness before. It began purring contentedly and drowsily as i stroked its fur. But i had readied my axe, and lowering its neck into position on a wooden block, i severed its head from its body in one deft blow. All, that is, except for a strand of skin. I had felt compassion for this kitten, but felt i could not keep it. Yet, rather than return it to the misery outside, i reasoned that the best thing i could do for it was to give it a painless death. So, i had done what i could to make it happy, and then done what i felt it my responsibility to do. Good Devin family philosophy. But to the Indonesians, mercy killing is unthinkable, and Len, probably in her late thirties or early forties, was horrified at what i had done. This brought out another side of my personality. Carrying the dead kitten by its tail, with the head still dangling from that strand of skin, i chased poor Len screaming to her room. It was almost more than she could bear. From this, it might not be hard to imagine how poorly i got on with Len. I was still very young at the time, and she had a somewhat overbearing personality. She was quite intelligent, and sincere in her love of the lord. But i don't think she gave to me the trust i had come to expect. However it was, i was greatly depressed and distressed during that long period in which i stayed with her, waiting for a ship back to Ambon. Tet was there, as i have said, and she was a comfort to me. Once we sat up late together, reading and talking in the stillness, and when we were ready to go to our separate rooms, i held her in my arms and kissed her. But it was no good. Things would never be as they had been before. Mother had left my return fare plus a little more in the hands of Len Talakua. When it was nearly time to go, i asked for the money. I had needed something or other, and had either purchased it already on credit, or else i wanted the money so that i could purchase it. I can't remember now what it was, but i think it may have been something to eat. At any rate, Len wouldn't trust me with the money. This turned me bitterly against Len, and i wouldn't take the money from her when it came time to go. Asserting my own trustworthiness, i borrowed money from Ji Nam, who was leaving on the same boat. He also arranged for me to take Chinese food with him from a small Chinese pantry up in the stern of the ship. The food was expensive, and there was never enough of it, but it was excellent cuisine. I cannot remember other feelings as i sailed away, unless it might have been a remorse for Tet. Much has been lost in the flow of time. I do seem to remember a Chinese lad of about my age or younger who became fast friends with me on the cruise, but i cannot remember his name. So i left Bacian, and, without knowing it, perhaps the most beautiful period of my life. Oh, Bacian, Bacian! Would that my spirit might ever bloom on your slopes, hover in the alang-alang grass, and bathe in your streams. But i would always weep for people i used to know, and for a place in space and time forever gone. Joseph's ministry never amounted to much after he left Bacian. True, he rose through the ranks to an administrative position in the organization, and became presbyter of the lease islands, but there his story seems to end. The people on Bacian were regimented into the organization as churches and members, and that was the end of them. Tet made a last missionary expedition to Kisar, far to the south, where even i have never been. But there she developed a bone infection in her lower leg, which brought her to Java for surgery. I met her at the Batutulis "Sidang Jumaat Allah" church in Jakarta when i returned to Indonesia in early 1965. We rode a becak (peddy-cab) to where i was staying, at the home of Coa Lian Han. I asked her what she was doing in Jakarta, and urged her to return to the Moluccas, where she belonged. I even offered to pay her fare home. But she answered with sadness in her voice, "Satu kali cukup juah, Joe." (Once is enough, Joe). Though their meaning seems clear enough now, i was too young and too foolish to understand her words then. yet i was to ponder them again and again. at that time my mind was focused upon nothing but my calling, and god. She had been such a dedicated person that i supposed she was talking about the work of the lord. I have never seen dear Tet again, but people tell me that she ended up settling down in Jakarta, where she married a seaman she had met in her journeys. I cannot help but feel a pang of sorrow whenever i think of all that she was, and that she has chosen to live in that spirit-stifling city where one is reduced to nothing more than one cell of bacteria in the human ferment. Mother is near me here (1979), but dying. She suffers much, and every day she wishes she could die. She often raves of the wilderness of Bacian, and of Barangka Dolong, which in her madness she calls "Barangkadolo." Chapter 17. The Casting of the Dye. Back in Ambon, Paul Tehupuring and mother had somehow come to some kind of an agreement. She then re-opened the Bible institute at Kate-Kate with great momentum. I found many new friends there, including a new student from Buru, named Bert Solisa. Like Joseph, Bert captured my imagination because of his great physical strength. He had tightly curled black hair. His skin was brown, a little on the light side. He was a good story teller, and a pleasant smile. He had rugged hands, and mighty arms, and he could deal axe blows with uncanny precision. But unlike Joseph, his strength was ungainly, more like that of a bear. And he lacked the athletic beauty that was Joseph's. I quickly learned not to rely on Bert's promises. At least not while i knew him at Kate-Kate. Once i promised to meet him at a certain time at Halong. I waited and waited, but he never did show up. Halong was then a village, situated directly across the inner bay from Kate-Kate. Our means of getting to and from Ambon town from Kate-Kate usually meant boating across the bay to Halong, then riding a locally built bus the rest of the way. These busses were built in Ambon of galvanized sheet-metal roofing material, stretched over planks and hardwood frames. They were often gaily painted, and some had imaginative arrays of horns, each giving a different tone. I had promised to pick Bert up at Halong in the late afternoon, and had paddled there alone in our canoe. He was not there. Nightfall came, and then lashing rain, but still no Bert. I tried to keep warm under the cotton sail, but it was no use. The torrential downpour continued, and i finally gave up, striking out across the black and erie waters for home. Great drops of rain struck the surface of the bay around me. Visibility was bad, but i was able to steer by the light of a fishermans canoe somewhere across the bay. I and my canoe were a little oasis of warmth and life in that vast nothing. I came out somewhere near guru-guru, if i remember correctly, then paddled to the right, and in to our landing under the old ketapang tree at Kate-Kate. I still remember (1979) carrying home the wet sail, and finding mother in the light of her oil lamp. She usually spent the lonely evening hours engrossed in some book, total silence all around her, from time to time a bug flapping around her lamp, invariably caught and eaten by my cat. When Bert appeared, and failed to give a satisfactory excuse, i was furious. Since then, however, i have grown to expect from life such things as these. It was Bert's stories that sparked my interest in Buru. He told of the people of the mountains, and of the building of the village at Waebohit. From sources such as Bert, Ateng, and Tinus, not to mention my old friend, Keri, i was constantly corroborating information from my mother's large-scale topographical map, which i had once laboriously copied for a missionary named Johan Hukom. The holy spirit seemed to give me a great curiosity and love for this mysterious island to the west, and for its people. I spent more and more time praying for Buru, and longed to go there myself to take part in the spreading of the gospel. In the moonlight, standing at the top of the rise behind the Bible institute complex at Kate-Kate, i imagined a long rope tied to the moon, and me, swinging at the end of it with great speed toward Buru, which lay where the moon was headed. I did a great deal of hunting with the Buru lads, usually in the moonlight. We went for the cuscus, or jungle possum, which they taught me how to call. This we did by holding our nostrils slightly closed, and blowing roughly through our noses. We also used a loud clicking sound which we made against the roofs of our mouths with our tongues. We would find some dark bower with a natural ladder to a larger tree where we had heard possum sounds. This natural ladder might be a smaller tree or vine. Then we would sit hidden in the shadows, give our calls, and the cuscus would begin to respond. These responses would grow more and more excited, until the little creature would start throwing itself from branch to branch toward where we were. When we thought our prey was close enough, we would leap up and make our kill with the razor-sharp machetes we held ready in our hands. When we had enough possums, we would stop somewhere and build a great fire. The Buru boys would gut them, and run freshly-cut staves through their bellies and out their mouths. Then they would singe off the hair, and broil them over the flames. We would also put some cassava tubers into the coals, if we had some. Then we would have our feast. I still had an aversion to cuscus meat, but it was coming under control. If we killed enough cuscus, we would always bring some home for the girls to cook at the school. I had always been afraid of dark places when i was alone at night, but after my baptism in the holy spirit, an amazing thing happened. I found i had the courage to go anywhere in the wilderness alone. The world of the nocturnal forest and the hunt was now opened to me, and it filled my mind with strange and wonderful new sights and sounds. Once, descending toward the inner bay from far up on the Hitu road, we came upon a most wonderful scene. A Binongko village lay silent in the pristine light of the moon, shimmering like a jewel in the jungle a little above and beyond guru-guru. The houses were arrange Along either side of a plaza or street, in the middle of which was a tiny mosque. There was no sign of movement, no sound. We tiptoed through the settlement so silently that we disturbed nothing. Not even the dogs. The moonlit jungles of Ambon held in them a dimension of beauty and mystery that i had never known before. At last, Martiga came, and our story returns to the time when Martiga and i were approaching Buru on the freighter from the south. I had begged mother to let me go, and she had consented. I was on my way to Buru in response to an inner spiritual drive. If you have followed my story correctly thus far, you will se that it was because of our principle that we went in the first place to Bacian. That it was in Bacian that my own spiritual life began, and that it was because of this spiritual life within me that i was now heading toward Buru in response to a spiritual call. Again, i cannot tell you precisely where or where, but i eventually felt that god had called me to Buru. At that time, however, on my journey with Martiga, i would have only conceded that god had burdened my heart for Buru. Nothing more. It should be clear that, had my mother not believed in the basic equality and brotherhood of all Christians, she would certainly never have allowed me to leave for Buru with Martiga at such a tender age. I was on my way to Buru because of a principle which was to unfold more and more through the years. THE FOLLOWING FROM TET TJIA 18 OCTOBER 1985. TET WAS MARRIED IN 1965, TO A JAVANESE NAMED WIJADI, WHO WORKS AS HARBOUR MASTER. SHE NOW HAS FOUR CHILDREN. THE OLDEST, 19, IS STUDYING MEDICINE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF INDONESIA. SECOND IS RETNO, 16, 2ND YEAR S M A. THIRD IS GUNAWAN, 14, 3RD YEAR OF S M P. FOURTH IS LUSIA DEVERA, 11, 5TH GRADE. THE OLDER CHILDREN NOW TEACH IN SUNDAY SCHOOL. TET KEPT A DIARY, BUT WHEN SHE MOVED FROM PLACE TO PLACE WITH HER HUSBAND, SHE LOST THIS DIARY AND ALL PHOTOGRAPHS EXCEPT FOR ONE. WE WENT TO BABANG AND SAIOANG FOUR TIMES. IF TET REMEMBERS CORRECTLY, EDNA BOUGHT THE DEER THY WHEN WE WERE WALKING WITH EDNA TO THE LARGE RIVER AT THE END OF THE TOWN, AND MET PEOPLE RETURNING FROM THE HUNT. EDNA BOUGHT A LARGE THIGH, TET THINKS FOR RP25. TET REMEMBERS ELSE, OF THE FAMILY THAT LIVED AS CARETAKERS OF THE PLANTATION AT BARANGKA DOLONG. THEY WERE THE RORING FAMILY. TET REMEMBERS ELSE, BECAUSE IT WAS ELSE WHO PUSHED TET IN FROM THE TOP OF A BOULDER, SO THAT TET FELT THAT SHE ALMOST DIED IN THE SWIRLING CURRENT THAT DRAGGED HER TOWARD THE bottom OF THE STREAM. TET THINKS WE WENT TO BACIAN TOGETHER THREE TIMES. JOURNEY #1. OUR FIRST CRUISE TO BACIAN WAS ABOARD THE K.P.M. VESSEL, "WAIKELU." OUR FIRST HOUSE IN BACIAN WAS AN OLD HOUSE, WALLED HALF WAY UP WITH CEMENT, FLOORED WITH DIRT MIXED WITH BROKEN CEMENT. IT WAS AMONG THE CHINESE SHOPS. THE FIRST TIME WE WENT TO BABANG, OUR PARTY CONSISTED OF JOSEPH LATU, MARTIGA PEOHA, MOTHER, TET, AND JOE. TET ONLY HAS ONE PICTURE LEFT OF BACIAN. THAT IS THE PICTURE THAT JOE TOOK OF TET, SITTING ON THE ROCK ON TOP OF THE HILL BEHIND BABANG. WE STAYED AT THE RAJA OF BABANG'S HOUSE, AND HELD MEETINGS THERE. THEN WE WENT BY CANOE TO TAWA, WHERE WE VISITED THE HOME OF A "PROTESTAN" MINISTER. FROM TAWA, WE WENT ON TO BIBINOI, WHERE WE STAYED SEVERAL DAYS AT THE RAJA'S HOUSE. THERE, TOO, WE HELD MEETINGS EVERY NIGHT. IT WAS IN BIBINOI THAT TET, FOR THE FIRST TIME IN HER LIFE, SAW WOMEN WEARING SARONGS WITH NOTHING ABOVE THEIR WAISTS. THEIR CHILDREN AND PRODUCE GATHERED FROM THE FIELDS, THEY CARRIED ON THEIR BACKS. THEY TOSSED THEIR BREASTS BACK OVER THEIR SHOULDERS TO FEED THEIR BABIES.. JOURNEY #2. WE SAILED AGAIN TO BACIAN ABOARD A SHIP OF THE K.P.M., BUT TET CANNOT REMEMBER THE NAME OF THE SHIP. THIS TIME WE BROUGHT DEREK AND MARIE TO BACIAN. OUR PARTY INCLUDED EDNA, JOSEPH, JOE, TET, EKBERT KAIHATU, PETRUS NANLOHI, DEREK, AND MARIE.WE STAYED FIRST AT THE HOUSE AMONG THE CHINESE SHOPS, THEN WE MOVED TO THE HOUSE BESIDE THE PRISON. JOE BOUGHT THE LITTLE MONKEY AFTER WE HAD MOVED TO THE HOUSE BESIDE THE PRISON.TET, EDNA, JOSEPH LATU, AND JOE WENT AGAIN TO BABANG AND SAIOANG. THIS WAS THE TIME WE GOT THE LITTLE HOUSE BY THE SEA FROM KIM'S FATHER. EDNA RENTED THE LITTLE HOUSE FROM KIMS FATHER, TET THINKS FOR RP50. THIS TIME, ALSO, WE FOUR PADDLED BY CANOE TO BORI. THERE WE FOUND MANY PEOPLE CRYING BY THE SHORE. WE WENT TO THE HOUSE OF THE CHIEF. HE WAS SHORT, FAT, AND BLACK. HIS TEETH WERE ALSO BLACK. HIS MOUTH WAS FULL OF SIRIH. WE ASKED WHY THE PEOPLE WERE CRYING, AND HE ANSWERED THAT WHEN PEOPLE DIED THERE, THEY HIRED PEOPLE TO MOURN THE DEAD. WHEN WE RETURNED IN THE AFTERNOON, WE STOPPED AT A BEACH, SEARCHED FOR SMALL PIECES OF WOOD, COOKED RICE AND CORNED BEEF, AND ATE. PADDLING ONWARD, WE REACHED A NARROW STRAIT, WHERE WE ENCOUNTERED LARGE WAVES, SO WE TOOK SHELTER BEHIND A SMALL ISLAND. JOSEPH AND JOE GOT OFF THE CANOE, LEAVING TET AND EDNA. THERE WERE MANY CROCODILES THERE, SO TET WAS SOMEWHAT FRIGHTENED. THERE WERE ALSO SHARKS. MEANTIME, JOE AND JOSEPH MOVED LIKE MONKEYS FROM ONE TREE TO THE OTHER. IT WAS ABOUT FIVE P M WHEN WE REACHED THE LITTLE HOUSE. TET RECALLS THAT, ON THE MORNING WE WERE TO RETURN TO LABUHA, EDNA WAS ANGRY AT JOE ABOUT SOMETHING, AND JOE WAS MADE TO STAY OUTSIDE THE HOUSE. IT SO HAPPENED THAT THERE WAS A CHILLY MISTY RAIN THAT MORNING. TET WAS FRYING CASSAVA FOR OUR BREAKFAST (TET, MOTHER, AND JOE WERE TO HAVE EATEN THE BREAKFAST). TET SNEAKED SOME FRIED CASSAVA TO JOE IN BACK OF THE HOUSE. TET SAYS THIS MEMORY IS FUNNY. IT IS TRUE THAT THE LITTLE HOUSE BY THE SEA FELL OVER AFTER TET AND EDNA AND JOE RETURNED TO LABUHA. BACK IN LABUHA AFTER BEING IN SAIOANG AND BORI, DEREK REPORTED THAT THE MONKEY HAD BEEN PLAYING WITH MATCHES, WHICH IT HAD BROUGHT UP ONTO THE ROOF, AS IF PLANNING TO BURN THE HOUSE. SO DEREK HAD ORDERED SOMEONE TO KILL IT. JOE WAS TET'S BODY GUARD EVERY DAY WHEN TET WENT TO SHOP AT THE BAZAAR. THIS WAS THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF TET'S LIFE. EKBERT KAIHATU AND PETRUS NANLOHI LEFT OUR COMPANY WHEN WE RETURNED TO AMBON. JOURNEY #3. OUR THIRD CRUISE TO BACIAN WAS ABOARD THE K.P.M. VESSEL, "KAIMANA." DEREK, MARIE, AND MARTIGA WERE STILL AT LABUHA WHEN WE ARRIVED THERE. MARTIGA LEFT US FIRST. THEN DEREK AND MARIE. TET CANNOT FORGET THE LAST TIME, WHEN EDNA WENT ALONE TO SAIOANG. TET HAD TO REMAIN BEHIND WITH JOE, WHO WAS SICK. JOE WAS NAUGHTY, AND KICKED TET ON THE HEAD, AND IN THE END IT WAS TET WHO WAS SICK. SO WE WERE LATE IN CATCHING UP WITH EDNA AT SAIOANG. JOE WAS BAPTISED IN THE HOLY SPIRIT IN THE HOUSE BESIDE THE PRISON AT LABUHA. IT WAS DURING A SUNDAY MORNING MEETING. THE HOLY SPIRIT WAS POURED OUT IN AN UNUSUAL MANNER, SO THAT EVERYONE WHO WAS WORSHIPPING FELL TO THE GROUND UNDER THE POWER OF THE HOLY SPIRIT. TET MINISTERED TO JOE AT THAT TIME UNTIL JOE WAS FILLED. WE AS A FAMILY THAT DAY WERE FILLED WITH JOY. IF TET IS NOT MISTAKEN, THIS HAPPENED THE DAY BEFORE JOE'S BIRTHDAY. EDNA THEN SAID THAT THIS WAS JOE'S BIRTHDAY PRESENT FROM THE LORD. THE REASON FOR OUR RETURN TO AMBON, TET SAYS, WAS TO GET MONEY TO BUY WAIOLI'S HOUSE. THIS WAS THE LAST TIME WE LIVED IN THE HOUSE BY THE PRISON. JOURNEY #4. EDNA RETURNED TO BACIAN WITH JOSEPH, LEN TALAKUA, AND JOE. SHE BROUGHT THE RP40,000 TO PAY WAIOLI, AND MOVED INTO THE HOUSE BY THE SEA. ED JOSEPH WAS STATIONED AT SAIOANG, WHEREAS LEN WAS STATIONED AT LABUHA. THEN EDNA RETURNED TO AMBON, SHE ASKED TET TO ACCOMPANY LEN TALAKUA IN BACIAN UNTIL THE END OF THE FIRST SEMESTER OF THE CLASS OF MIN HUKOM. THEN TET RETURNED TO AMBON TO CONTINUE HER SCHOOLING, LEAVING LEN AND JOSEPH IN BACIAN. Bibliography: L9/24/85 to Tet Tjia. L9/24/85 to Joseph Latu. L10/2/85 to Martiga Peoha. Derek & Marie 10/16/85, volume 27. Len Talakua 10/18/85, volume 27 Tet Tjia 10/18/85, volume 27 Kermite October 1985, volume 27 l2/9/86 to Tet Tjia, volume 28 l6/20/86 to Tet Tjia, volume 30 ***** END TET MATERIAL. ***** SEX: I HAD LEARNED ABOUT THE FACTS OF LIFE AT TERNATE, WHEN I WAS FIVE. MY FIRST ATTEMPTS AT SEXUAL INTERCOURSE OCCURRED A FEW DAYS LATER, STILL AT TERNATE. SHE WAS SIX. OUR GENTLE AFFAIR HAD LASTED FOR SEVERAL DAYS, DURING WHICH TIME I HAD BEGUN TO FEEL INCREASINGLY UNEASY. IT HAD ENDED ONE EVENING, WHEN I HAD CONFESSED TO MY SISTER AS WE WERE GOING TO SLEEP. HER GENTLE WORDS HAD CONFIRMED MY FEARS, AND I HAD BECOME SHOCKED AND HORIFIED AT THE SERIOUSNESS OF WHAT I HAD DONE. SHE HAD COUNSELLED AND PRAYED WITH ME FOR FORGIVENESS, I HAD REPENTED, AND SEX HAD HAD NO FURTHER IMPORTANCE IN MY LIFE UNTIL ABOUT THE AGE OF NINE. AT THAT TIME, IN KATE-KATE, I HAD BECOME INVOLVED WITH A GROUP OF BOYS OF VARYING AGES WHO HAD BECOME FASCINATED WITH THE IDEA OF SEX. WE HAD HAD DISCUSSIONS, ESPECIALLY ON THE BROAD FRONT STEPS IN THE EVENINGS. THE ONLY SEXUAL TABOO WE HAD KNOWN HAD BEEN THE ONE ABOUT MEN AND WOMEN. PERHAPS BECAUSE OF THIS VERY FACT, OUR SEXUAL FANTASIES SEEMED TO HAVE SPUN THEMSELVES ABOUT THE ADULT FEMALES OF THE PLACE. BUT THESE WERE ONLY DREAMS, STRANGE AND WONDERFUL DESIRES THAT COULD NEVER BE DISCUSSED OUTSIDE OUR GROUP--ESPECIALLY NOT WITH ANYONE FEMALE. IN FACT, THE SEXUAL TABOO WAS SO STRONG THAT TO SHOW INTEREST FOR ONE OF THE OPPOSITE SEX IN PUBLIC WOULD HAVE BEEN UNTHINKABLE. MEN AND WOMEN HAD SEEMED NOT TO NOTICE ONE ANOTHER, EVEN BATHING NAKED AT THE STREAM. SO, WE HAD TRNSLATED OUR FANTASIES INTO DIFFERENT EXPERIMENTS, NONE OF WHICH INVOLVED MEMBERS OF THE OPPOSITE SEX. WE HAD KNOWN THAT WHAT WE WERE DOING WASN'T RIGHT, OF COURSE, BUT WE HAD HAD THE CONSENT OF THE GROUP, AND WE WEREN'T BREAKING THE TABOO BETWEEN MALE AND FEMALE. AT ANY RATE, WE HAD QUICKLY LEARNED THAT NOTHING WE COULD DO WITH EACH OTHER WOULD WORK. THESE THINGS HAD ONLY SERVED TO MAKE THE GIRLS ALL THAT MUCH MORE TERRIBLY MYSTERIOUS AND ATTRACTIVE. THUS, BY ABOUT AGE TEN, I HAD LOST ALL FURTHER INTEREST IN ANY SORT OF SEXUAL EXPERIMENTATION WITH OTHER MALES. AMONG THOSE WITH WHOM I HAD ASSOCIATED DURING THOSE EARLY YEARS IN THE MOLUCCAS, THE IDEA OF A SERIOUS HOMOSEXUAL RELATIONSHIP WAS PROBABLY NEVER EVEN CONCEIVED. AT AN EARLY AGE, THE BIBLE HAD BECOME MY CRITERION FOR DISCERNING RIGHT FROM WRONG. I HAD BEEN FORTUNATE IN HAVING A GUIDE INTO THE LAWS OF GOD WHO WAS CAREFUL NOT TO ADD TOO MANY IDEAS OF HER OWN. I MEAN EDNA, OF COURSE. THERE HAD BEEN NO RULES REGARDING PHYSICAL CONTACT OR AFFECTION. IN THESE THINGS ONE HAD HAD TO USE ONE'S OWN JUDGMENT. BUT OUTSIDE OF MARRIAGE, SEXUAL INTERCOURSE HAD BEEN INEXCUSABLE AND INTOLERABLE. ALL THESE THINGS HAD BEEN BROUGHT HOME TO ME WITH GREAT FORCE AS I OBSERVED THE WAY IN WHICH MOTHER HAD DEALT WITH THOSE WHO OFFENDED. I HAD LEARNED THE HIGHER PRINCIPLES, AND A HIGHER PLANE OF BEHAVIOUR, WHERE EXCUSES LIKE, "I COULDN'T HELP IT," SIMPLY WOULDN'T WORK. I HAD LEARNED THAT PEOPLE COULD HELP THINGS, AND THAT THEY WERE EXPECTED TO. I HAD LEARNED TO VIEW THE LAWS OF GOD NOT AS A STATEMENT OF IDEALS NEVER TO BE ATTAINED, BUT AS COMMANDMENTS THAT MUST NEVER BE BROKEN, WHATEVER THE COST. IN SHORT, I HAD LEARNED THE FEAR OF GOD. *****IDEAS OF RIGHTEOUSNESS BROUGHT BACK FROM INDONESIA IN 1976: THIS LOVE OF WHICH I SPEAK IS PURE, AND CANNOT BE UNDERSTOOD EXCEPT FROM THE BASIS OF THE HIGHEST MORALITY. IT IS TRUE THAT THE SENSUAL ATTRACTION BETWEEN MALE AND FEMALE CAN BE BROUGHT INTO HARMONY WITH THIS LOVE, BUT THIS LOVE STILL REMAINS ABSOLUTE, TRANSCENDING ALL SENSUALITY. IT IS UNFEIGNED AND UNHYPOCRITICAL. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE MOCKERY OF LOVE FOISTED UPON US BY MODERN CHRISTIANITY. IT IS REAL, AND SPRINGS LIKE A PURE STREAM FROM THE HEART. IT CANNOT EMBRACE EVIL OR SIN, WHEREAS I HAVE THE IMPRESSION FROM THINGS I HAVE RECENTLY HEARD, THAT WE SHOULD LOVE EVERYONE, RIGHT UP TO AND INCLUDING THE DEVIL HIMSELF. PEOPLE WHO HAVE THAT KIND OF LOVE DON'T UNDERSTAND THE JUDGMENT OF GOD, AND CANNOT KNOW THE GOD I KNOW, AND OF WHOM I SPEAK. LONG BEFORE THAT TIME I HAD ALREADY LEARNED THAT GOD CAN NEVER BE RECONCILED TO EVIL. I ALSO KNEW THAT HE WAS HOLY, AND COULD NEVER BE APPROACHED LIGHTLY. BESIDE THIS, I DIDN'T SUFFER FROM THE DELUSION WHICH I HAVE LATER FOUND SO COMMON, THAT ALL MEN ARE SINNERS, AND NO ONE CAN EVER BE HOLY. I CAN REMEMBER AS FAR BACK AS WHEN I WAS ONLY FOUR OR FIVE, STIING ON THE VERANDAH AT KATE-KATE IN THE LATE AFTERNOON ONE DAY, WHEN THE THOUGHT HAD CLEARLY COME TO ME THAT THESE TWO PEOPLE WERE TOTALLY RELIABLE AND UNMOVABLE, AND COULD NEVER BE SHAKEN FROM THEIR RIGHTEOUSNESS. NOW, AT FOURTEEN, I FELT ALSO THAT PEOPLE LIKE JOSEPH AND TET WERE HOLY. I NEVER DOUBTED THEN, NOR DO I NOW, THAT GOD SAVE PEOPLE OUT OF AND NOT IN THEIR SINS. BUT HERE IN CALIFORNIA NOW I FIND MYSELF INUNDATED BY SUCH A VARITABLE SEA OF GRACE THAT I AM ABOUT TO GO DOWN FOR THE THIRD TIME. FRANKLY, OF COURSE, I DON'T THINK MOST PEOPLE WHO KEEP HARPING ON GRACE HAVE THE FOGGIEST IDEA OF WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT, NOR EVEN KNOW THE MEANING OF THE WORD. SUCH MEN IDENTIFY QUICKLY WITH PHRASES LIKE "TOTAL DEPRAVITY," BECAUSE IT IS IN THEIR VERY NATURE. THEN THEY METHODICALLY AND SYSTEMATICALLY PROCEED TO BEND THE RESPLENDANT SCRIPTURES INTO CONFORMITY WITH THEIR OWN STATE OF MIND. THEY CLAIM THAT THEY ARE SAVED BECAUSE THEY HAVE BELIEVED ON JESUS, YET JESUS HIMSELF SAID, "IT IS EASIER FOR HEAVEN AND EARTH TO PASS THAN FOR ONE LETTER OF THE LAW TO FAIL. AND THEY PREACH LOVE AND LISCENCE, WHILE JESUS SAID YE ARE HOLY BECAUSE OF THE WORDS THAT I HAVE SPOKEN UNTO YOU, AND IF YE LOVE ME, KEEP MY COMMANDMENTS. I BELIEVED MEN COULD BE PURE AND UPRIGHT, AND THIS WAS THE WAY I INTENDED TO LIVE MY LIFE. ***** THE BANKS OF THE RA: I stop and lean upon my spear, and at my feet the Ra swirls by, swollen in the storm. I linger for a moment there, gazing up into that ageless forest. The cry of a toi echoes and fades in the gloom, muffled by the rain. I feel the throb of my heart beneath my breast, and my gaze falls to the delicate ferns that arch over the muddy trail.I see a great forest, sad in the gloom of the storm. I see the river, thundering by. I hear the rain in the forest again. The lonely cry of the toi. I see the figure of a young man and a woman, obscure in the storm. Dark eyes, thundering river, "toi,toi". The great green parrot taking wwing in the depths of the jungle. I see a young man and woman standing embracing on the banks of the Ra(?) How pure the love! How great the storm!How vast the forest!@ How sweet your lips! and warm.--- The elements rage, but in the throbbing of your heart there is life. In your shameless eyes a place to rest my weary soul.--- One long embrace, the storm, the sky, the river.--- As though an old man, I look back into the distant past.--- The muscles of my throat tighten, and salt tears mingle with the raindrops upon my face. I am there, yet I amnot. Still in my deepest soul the waters of the Ra will always flow, I will always hear the storm striving upon a great forest, the lonely toi, the rushing river---. My spear shaft makes a sucking sound as I draw it from the muddy trail. I ford the Ra, and fade into the gloom beneath the great trees of the forest. O Bacian, Bacian. This life of mine may come and go, but may the thunder of the Ra long mingle with the storm. (Transcribed 11/20/89 by Julie Belina. This was written at Hacienda Heights, probably after the diary entry about the rain in my dream. Dark-eyes, of course, is Tet Cia. --Joe).